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#1 |
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bonsaiTALK Artisan
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Humidity Trays
Has anyone thought about this before cause it has crossed my mind alot. I know that humidity trays have a very small edge that can keep water retained for humidity. I see those really shallow pots that look similar but cost alot more than a regular pot. Is it possible to take a humidity tray, very carefully drill drainage holes into it? I haven't tried because i really don't know how great of an idea this may be. I don't want to waste any money if someone already knows that this is the worst idea ever.
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Family Guy: Niles: Well Frasier, you're so corpulant that when you sit around the magnificently appointed tusken villa, you sit AROUND the magnificently appointed tusken villa. Peter: Huh, this is the smartest show on TV! |
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#2 |
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bonsaiTALK ArchMaster
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"I see those really shallow pots that look similar but cost alot more than a regular pot. Is it possible to take a humidity tray, very carefully drill drainage holes into it?"
Sure is. |
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#3 |
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bonsaiTALK ArchMaster
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One of my nerrifolia and also a schefflera live in drilled trays. My take is if it looks like it would make a good pot but doesnt have holes..drill it, porcelin is hard to get thru though.
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http://gongshi.freeforums.org/index.php |
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#4 |
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bonsaiTALK Artisan
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Does anyone have any advice on how to drill holes into the tray? I tried really really carefully with a hammer and a small screw driver cause i didn't have a drill or anything. Just wondering what is the best way to go about it.
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Family Guy: Niles: Well Frasier, you're so corpulant that when you sit around the magnificently appointed tusken villa, you sit AROUND the magnificently appointed tusken villa. Peter: Huh, this is the smartest show on TV! |
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#5 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
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A drill and an appropriate drill bit are required.
zube
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Sorry doesn't put thumbs back on the hand, Marge. H. Simpson |
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#6 |
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bonsaiTALK Expert
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I'd say you need a low speed drill, decent masonry bits and proper lubricant. If you don't have lubricant, you can try to drill through with the tray and the bit underwater.
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#7 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
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Meushi, it would probably be best if you refrained from giving advice that might result in someone's electrocution. Never use a power tool in water, unless it is made specifically for that.
zube
__________________
Sorry doesn't put thumbs back on the hand, Marge. H. Simpson |
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#8 |
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w/ Hippyistic Tendencies
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If it's a shallow enough pot , or the tree that will planted on it has lots of roots, you may not need drainge holes. This also depends on how humid it is where you live.
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"Although profoundly "inconsequential," the Zen experience has consequences in the sense that it may be applied in any direction, to any conceivable human activity, and that wherever it is so applied it lends an unmistakable quality to the work." ~ Alan Watts (1915-1973)
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#9 |
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bonsaiTALK ArchMaster
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This depends on what you're drilling. I've found that alot of Chinese pots can be drilled simply by placing the pot face up on a pile of sand or fine mulch, pressed down into it, so the bottom is supported evenly, then drilled with a low speed drill and a masonry bit. This can work for terra cotta too, Don't be impatient, too much pressure on the drill bit will break the pot. Plastic trays are simple. Most any bit will do.
Higher fired pots require a bit more expertise. I don't try to drill high fired pots. |
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#10 |
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bonsaiTALK Journeyman
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I use a dremel with diamond cone shape grinding bits. Don't try to drill straight through or it will bind. Keep grinding point moving in circular motion. Sometimes I grind in a bigger circle, the size of final hole. This reduces the amount of material that needs to be removed. Put drops of water in hole to lube. This is a drawn out process and I will no longer do it unless it is really necessary to the composition.
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