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#1 |
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bonsaiTALK Craftsman
Join Date: Apr-2005
Posts: 58
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Homemade Rock
So I made a rock to plant a ficus over.
Procedure: 1) dig hole-the hole was shaped like I wanted the rock to look 2) fill hole with mortar 3) let dry (it stayed in for about a month because I fogot about it, but whatever it hardened) 4) remove "rock" from hole Ta-Da you get shapely rock with nice flat bottom. My question is (questions are): 1) could standard mortar be detrimental to my tree, to much lime or anything? 2) Does this rock look to contrived/fake? 3) Should I chisel it down some to reduce the size(it is about 10.5in wide, 8in tall at the tallest hump and 5 in tall at the shortest hump) or give it a better texture? 4) does it work with this green island ficus? 5) does anyone have any other ideas/suggestions? Thanks, Turtlebo |
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#2 |
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Bonsai Barry
Join Date: Dec-2004
Location: Santa Maria, CA
Country: USA
USDA Zone: 9
AHS Heat Zone: 3,4
Posts: 1,135
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Thanks for posting your questions. I have had similar ones myself. I am also interested in learning how to create a slab. I've read about it but there were terms and materials that I was unfamilar with.
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Bonsai Barry "Our talent lies in our choices." |
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#3 |
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Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb-2005
Location: Carlsbad, California..coastal desert
Country: United States
USDA Zone: 11
Posts: 5,433
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Having listened to several demos using a concrete mix, the demonstrators have all mentioned leaving the rock out for something like a year, to let the rain clean and leach the bad stuff out. Whether this could be done another way, someone else can say perhaps, but certainly those demonstrators felt that there were things in the new cure that shouldn't be in contact with your tree.
Nice rock! Joanie |
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#4 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
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I was given some info on this a while back on another forum. Unfortunatly I cannot give proper credit as he only left his first name. I have not tried this yet either so take it for what it is worth.
The great thing about using cement to make 'rock' is that it is derived from limestone - you can re-create the types of rocks such as the Tai-hu of China to Gifu of Japan. Do NOT use sand to create these hard smooth rocks. Instead use fibers. I prefer using steel wool, as it creates an attractive random mottling of rust stain against the soft grey - but it is laborious. An alternative would be the synthetic fibers. Once mixed, the 'rock-paste' will look fuzzy. Allow to set, till it feels as hard as soap, (scratch test) then carve. The fibers should not pull out fron the cement matrix, rather slice away cleanly with the material you cut away Tools are simple. I like using a sharp knife to create 'ax-cut' rock - Heavy duty gloves are a must - not just because of the alkali, but the steel wool as well Use plain cement - not fondue/quick setting types. White cement will create tonal variation, as well as any veining or marbling patterns. To create marbling - make separate batches of white & grey, (with fibers added to the grey) then fold together unevenly into a temporary mould (plastic container) alternately add a layer of one, then the other to create 'strata'. When you carve the rock - cut through in a way to exploit these striations artistically. Many ideas will come to you when you start experimenting - observe the way natural rocks form and erode.. imagine them in their molten state when they formed 'Finishing' the rock, amounts to curing, leaching and grinding - before it's ready/safe for use with plants . Once the've been carved, completely submerge them in water for 4 weeks (though I have pushed-it with just 2) - changing the water every few days. This is when they will harden rapidly and start to feel like stone, but still can be abraided/smoothed with a pebble or carborundum stone - this is when the steel-wool fuzzies will be knocked-off. Return to water for remainder of time and voila - Hyperstone! This should get you started Jack Jack, Hope you don't mind (if you jumped ship as well). You shared this info freely with me so I thought I would pass it on. Newt
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