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19-Sep-2005
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#1 |
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bonsaiTALK Neophyte
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Here's hoping I don't mess up!! - Procumbens Nana
Well..........
I've bought 4 juniperus procumbens nana at a nursery not too awfully far from me. It's a fairly large nursery that will get what you want if they happen not to have it in stock. They are in what I would term 1 gallon plastic nursery pots. They look pretty darn healthy and 2-3 have the beginnings of what to my untrained eye seem to be the beginnings of a cascade. But then what do I know?? Anyway, I've got them on a high tech bench. It's a left over piece of treated 2x10 stretched between two short plastic tables. Hey it works!! I've watered them in the evening and they were dry feeling the next morning. So this evening I filled a bucket with water and submersed them to the rim of the pot until they quit bubbling and put them back on the board/bench in the sun. I'd thought they might need repotting, but from what I've read I now sort of think I should wait until spring and just basically keep them alive and protected this winter and start on the repotting next spring. There are no roots coming out of the drainage holes. The water drains out the holes when I water and so forth. So......... Unless someone tells me I'm about to mess up I guess I'll leave them alone until next spring except for watering and protecting them over the cold part of the winter. I'm lucky that doesn't generally get here until later on in November or into December. Am I okay guys?? I'm as nervous as with a new baby here. Thanks |
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Sponsor Message
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Here's hoping I don't mess up!! - Procumbens Nana |
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Forum Sponsor
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19-Sep-2005
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#2 |
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bonsaiTALK ArchMaster
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Procumbens Junipers make wonderful bonsai. You mentioned that one of them seems to be a candidate for a Cascade bonsai. That is not surprising considering how the darn things grow. I would suggest to you that you for the time being consider the size and shape of the trunk. Too often a beginner, and intermediate grower as well, will judge a potential bonsai by the branching.
This is not always the best option for the tree. The most important and critical aspect of bonsai is in the size and shape of the trunk. If you have a tree with real ugly branching but a wonderful trunk you can make a good bonsai of the tree. If you have wonderful branching but the trunk is ugly you will never make a good bonsai of the tree. What I am saying to you is judge the bonsai by the trunk, judge the raw material by the trunk, and decide the style of the tree by the trunk. For now forget the branching, you can always grow new branching, and even graft branches if necessary, but good trunks take time, and bad trunks waste time.
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The only finished bonsai is a dead one; me 1992 MABA Des Moines Iowa |
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19-Sep-2005
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#3 |
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BonsaiTalk Master B.S.er
 
Join Date: Jun-2002
Location: Richardson, Texas
Country: God Bless America
USDA Zone: 8
Posts: 1,285
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Take 3 of the 4 to the next three "bring your own tree" workshops at your local club. You will get invaluable experience. After that, give yourself a try with the 4th one. If these are mature enough to be trained/styled, you can train them while in the gallon cans, and then gradually reduce the root mass in the Springs. No need to rush them all at one time from the can to the pot.
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Emerging from winter slumber Bonsai trees burst buds anew Spring is upon us! -Paul S. |
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20-Sep-2005
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#4 | |
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bonsaiTALK Neophyte
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Here's hoping I don't mess up!! - Procumbens Nana
Quote:
Thanks for your response!! While I can read and read articles and/or books, there is so much information available that I for one find it hard sometimes to know the best way to proceed. For instance I've only seen one article that I can remember that dealt with trunk enhancement per se and it talked about encircling the base of the trunk with wire. The premise was it would cause the trunk to enlarge. Now that very well may be true, but to a very green person such as I am that sounds a little wrong.  Do you personally have any sources of information on trunk enhancementthat you would suggest to someone such as myself?? |
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20-Sep-2005
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#5 |
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Still Learning
 
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http://www.evergreengardenworks.com/trunks.htm Read this olbarn. Hope it helps. Also do a search for trunk growth here on BT. Lots of time and patience is required to grow large trunks.
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21-Sep-2005
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#6 | |
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bonsaiTALK Expert
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Quote:
J. procumbens is slow to put on trunk growth even after many years and retaining alot of foliage eg. growing out. If you eliminate foliage you will never build a trunk. My first bonsai was a 6" procumbens cascade. Now after about twenty years in a pot and using maximum foliage and mostly cut and grow trunk diameter is maybe 3". But this is a 36" cascade now. Hasaki |
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21-Sep-2005
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#7 |
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bonsaiTALK ArchMaster
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Harrold is correct, Junipers in general don't thicken much except with a lot of growth and a lot of time.
__________________
The only finished bonsai is a dead one; me 1992 MABA Des Moines Iowa |
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22-Sep-2005
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#8 | |
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bonsaiTALK Expert
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Quote:
If you do cascades choose one of styles of natural or classic forms to develope a tree based on a finished size. It is important to get the first curve especially on a verticle cascade "right" when the tree trunk is young and can be wired. In my opinion most cascade bonsai that you see are "static bonsai designs" with predictable branching. Hasaki |
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19-Jan-2006
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#9 |
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bonsaiTALK Journeyman
Join Date: Jan-2006
Posts: 21
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Size of pot when repotting a "Nana"
My nana is looking very very healthy. I am very pleased with the growth. This last year, I rescued him from a small nursery who had him indoors and mixed in with many other plants whose foilage blocked all his precious light. After bringing him in, and giving him all the TLC, he has almost trippled in size and girth in the same pot. This is after one year when I bought him. I am unsure of how old he was when I bought him, but he seems to be ready for another pot. His trunk is solid and his branches are very bushy. It is my understanding that every fews years is an appropriate time to repot into a different size. His pot size now is small, and I think he is in need of a bigger pot. I just don't want it to be to big, as to where he will lose his tight and dense characteristics, so It just makes me curious of how big the pot should be.
With this particular type of tree, are there certain sizes of pots that are more appropriate than others? I see some pots that are substantially longer or wider, but they aren't as deep. I am hesitant to use a shallow pot for my nana, but like I said, I don't want to lose that nice and fruitful feel by not having him nice and snug into a decent sized pot. His pot now is 6"x4.5"x1.5". I am planning on planting him into a 8"x6"x2" or 8"x6"x2.5". I think this will allow for some much needed breathing space and also allowing him for some nice root growth in times to come. Can anyone help or share their experience with shallow or slim pots? I could really use some suggestions with this particular species of tree. |
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