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#1 |
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bonsaiTALK Artisan
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Hardwood preservation
I have a fukien with an open section down to the hardwood. I was originally gonna post asking for advice about possible worm infestation in the hardwood because I found a hole that I'd never noticed before (see attached pic; the hole is at the very bottom of the deadwood). Then again, I'm just a newb, so maybe it's been there the whole time and I just never noticed. Anyway, after poking inside the hole with a small piece of wire, I couldn't find a continuation. I think it just goes in about 3-4 millimeters and stops.
Anyway, while I'm poking around I notice that the hardwood is a little flaky, so now I'm wondering about the fact that it should probably be sealed at least, and possibly carved some to remove rotting deadwood. I'm petrified about this idea, but if any of the wood is bad, it's bad. So I was hoping someone could point me to a good tutorial on removing/repairing/protecting sections of open hardwood. Preferably from start to finish. Is this essentially just like creating a shari? ~Mo Last edited by MoSinister : 7-Nov-2005 at 09:35 PM. |
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#2 |
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Ninja Woodsmen
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They have such a thing as "wood hardener" its sold around here but before you put it on the dead wood make sure none of the chemicals in it will harm your tree.If you don't want to use this or someone says its no good then you could just put on wood sealent.I haven't tryed the wood hardener myself so I don't know how effective it is.Good Luck.
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Elm237 |
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#3 |
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Bonsai Master, in my mind
Join Date: Feb-2005
Location: Back Home in Northern California
Country: USA
Posts: 1,482
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G'day Mo...
Preparation and treatment for preservation of deadwood, rotted or not, is much the same as that for jin and shari. In broad terms, you carve away all rotted wood, if any, then carve the area to enhance, or at least complement, your design. Be sure that that there are no scars showing from knife, chisel, rough sandpaper, etc. Then finish off with super fine sand paper, or steel wool, or even a small torch...to remove remaining hairs. Next...somewhat controversial...many people, for many years, have used lime sulphur as a preservetive...and to give the dead wood that "white" look. However, I don't use lime sulphur, and I don't like the "white" look. A fungicide like lime sulfur should help to prevent or to get rid of rot causing fungi. It is great for treatment and prevention of these things. Lime sulfur is NOT a wood preservetive...in my opinion. Much better than lime sulphur, again in my opinion, is Minwax Wood Hardener (available at most hardware stores in the US), or something like Thompson's Water Sealer, or Marine Epoxy. Some time back, Michael Persiano recommended a combination of lime sulfur, Minwax Wood Hardener, and, if necessary, Marine Epoxy to restore decayed areas. So, always remember, and don't ever forget...lime sulfur is a fungacide, NOT a wood preservetive. Enjoy your bonsai... Pat
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BONSAI isn't about surviving in a storm, rather, how to dance in the rain. THE ONLY WAY: Always remember, and don't ever forget, that whatever you read here is not cast in concrete... the intent of any advice is to help. In no way should you feel that I’m saying that my way is the only way…heaven forbid! I've seen far too much of the "my way or the highway" attitude in bonsai as well as in other areas of life. Pat Patterson...Bonsai in the Greater Bay Area, Northern California
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#4 |
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bonsaiTALK Master
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I couldn't help but notice that you have polished gravel covering your soil. Is this gravel glued on? because if it is you should probably scrape it away. It really interferes with the watering of your tree. I know this has nothing to do with you question, but I thought I should point it out. Many mass prodused bonsi trees come with gravel glued over the soil, to prevent damage during shipping. Fukien Tea is a commonly mass produced bonsia. If I'm incorrect in my guess, then just ignore me. Thought I should mention it, it could save your tree.
cheers Cord |
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