grafting shimpaku...

oaktree_slim

greetings! I have some shimpakus that could benefit in design by the addition of "new" primary branching. I have never performed this operation on any species before. so on that note, considering the form of these trees as they are, even a failed attempt would be gainfull for the sake of experience.

i have been reading up on the basic process but can't find much info on shimpakus. being late spring in zone 9b, would this be an appropriate time? also can older wood up to 1/2" possibly take to thicker stock to create a more intersting trunk line with better taper?

oaktree~

Advertisement

Graydon

Do you get Bonsai Today or Bonsai Focus? There was a great article on approach grafting shimpaku in one of the last 2 issues. Sorry but I'm not where I can get them out and look. As far as the time I would say no due to basic grafting principals. I would think that you would want dormant trunk and dormant to slightly active scion stock for a good graft and that would be during the colder months. The article does review when the grafts are done. scion would want to be smaller than your 1/2" example unless you could approach graft those in a place needed.

Hang tight as someone with experience grafting shimpaku will hopefully post.

__________________

Jgs bonsai

Hi Oaktree_slim:

Grafting shimpaku is a very good way to establish the branching that you say is needed for your tree. I have grafted shimpaku may times with excellent results. Junipers take to grafting well and the process is relatively easy. Graydon is correct that this is not a good time of the year to do regular grafts. Here in central California we usually do it in late January or February. The grafting of shimpaku branches is often used to change the foliage of other types of junipers such as San Jose, Prostrata or collected California and Utah Junipers. This allows the small fine shimpaku foliage to grow on the large trunks and vigorous root system of the other varieties.

I have less experience with inarch grafting but I have done some on shimpaku. I did mine inarch grafts during the winter but I think that this method can be used this time of year to get your branches. I have used small shimpaku cuttings in four-inch pots to provide the scion. It is important to match the cambium layer of the scion with the cambium layer of the rootstock. It is also important to secure the potted tree well after the cambium match is made as any movement between the scion and rootstock will stop the fusion process. After you join the two trees together encourage growth on both plants to speed the fusion. I usually allow the graft to grow for at least a full season before separating the roots from the grafted branch. You can tell when the graft has taken if the branch is larger after it joins the rootstock that it is near its own roots. After you remove the roots from the scion keep the newly added branch secured in place with wire, grafting tape or stretch wrap so the branch is not disturbed. The grafted branch should have taken hold within a year and the extra support can be removed then.

Jgsbonsai