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#11 |
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Learning the Art
Join Date: Dec-2004
Location: Ft.Myers FL but currently Jacksonville FL
Country: United States
USDA Zone: 9
Posts: 541
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Do you think you'd be able to reduce the leaf size on the rubrum?
I'm interested in growing a maple down here in Ft.Myers. (kotohime isnt looking at its best.) -Evan
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#12 |
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fugu...mmmm
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i have no idea? good question. anyone know?
my instinct is to assume it would be possible. ive heard of other people having this tree as a bonsai, but i just do not know... jeff |
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#13 |
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bonsaiTALK ArchMaster
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The problem with Acer rubrum as bonsai isn't really leaf size, although reduction isn't terrific. The bigger problem is long internodes between lleaf pairs. The distance is pretty big-four or five inches or longer. This doesn't really change, or changes minimally, when the plant is used as bonsai. This makes it lanky and loose in form, mostly resulting in awkward, stiff looking bonsai. Using big stock can minimize the issue.
There are some cultivars in the tree's southern range (Florida) that have a dwarfish growth habit. This species is easily collected and very hardy. Large specimens can be dug with little trouble in early spring... |
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#14 |
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Attila Soos
Join Date: Jan-2002
Location: Los Angeles, California
Country: USA
Posts: 2,026
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The big leaves and long internodes are a problem indeed. I grow a few of them in the ground (since they are too young for bonsai pots) and I noticed the above problems.
In order to reduce the internodes, the following works: after the first Spring growth spur, all the new growth should be cut off completely. This will trigger a second rush, with much less vigour and therefore with shorter internodes. In addition, while at the second growth spur, when the first new pair of leaves appear at the beginning of the growth process, they should be pinched off right away while they are just a few millimeter long. This will further reduce the energy in those shoots, and the result is much shorter internodes and smaller leaves. This task becomes easier as soon as we have a tree with lots of secondary and tertiary ramification, when the leaves and internodes tend to reduce by virtue of this abundance. BTW, this applies to all trees, not just Red maples. The above techniques should be done only on strong, healthy trees, since the purpose is to deplete the new growth of some of its energy. If the tree is sick and weak, further weakening it can be fatal. Red maples are absolutely gorgeous trees, so I think it's well worth the trouble to work with them. Attila (PS: this is my 1000th post, so please congratulate me ) |
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