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First time trunk chopper

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Old 16-Aug-2005   #11
bonsaibandit05
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thanks Little John,

that is helpfull !
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Old 17-Aug-2005   #12
rockm
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The method described in the linked article wouldn't really be appropriate for bald cypress. Broom styles are suited more to deciduous broadleafed trees. The style looks very strange with conifers. Additionally, the techniques used in that article probably aren't needed with BC. If you use the "V" chop technique, for instance, you will wind up wiht an extremely unsightly bulge down the road, as BC produces thick heavy scar tissue in closing wounds. The initial trunk chop should be FLAT across. After a year or two, you choose the new leader, then do another chop downwards from the apex shoot angled down the trunk. You should probably carve out the wound to make it a bit concave around the edges and raised a bit in the center. This will allow scar tissue to grow in flush with the trunk.

As for styles, look to Gary Marchal's webpage, or here (halfway down the page): http://www.lcbsbonsai.org/Gallery/B...1/Gal_BbAW1.htm for some ideas. There are several different "variant" styles that can be made with BC. "Flat top" is the more naturalistic, with the typical triangle conifer style another option. The taller and thinner the trunk, the more experienced BC folks lean towards flat top styles. Shorter, thicker trunks lend themselves to younger looking BC styles.

This doesn't mean you have to stick to style "rules," but that the material itself to these kinds of treatments. BC is a native tree with distinctive natural growth habits. Forcing a broom style on them might not give you satisfying results.
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Old 17-Aug-2005   #13
bonsaibandit05
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Thanks Rockm, that is very helpfull. Do you have to treat the wound?
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Old 17-Aug-2005   #14
rockm
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I haven't treated a chop wound on this species--but you might want to any any. I have heard that sealing the wound can prvent a bt of dieback at the wound site, although this species is so vigorous, dieback is a relative thing. Typically these trees will push alot of new growth directly at the chop site.

You really don't have to worry about rot setting into the wound without sealing it. Cypress wood is extremely resistant to decay, although older specimens have the most resistant wood. The rot resistance is what made bald cypress wood so desireable in building material and what has driven the logging of most of the old growth cypress in the South.
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Old 17-Aug-2005   #15
bonsaibandit05
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I just recieved an email back from Gus Guidry, it was very helpful. I will post it here:

It takes several years to set up a cypres to be a good bonsai and then again a few more to refine them so basically if you want something nice in a year or two...buy one semi styled or set up. I can't possibly write the book on cypress trees here in an email.You can make reference to articles on the web.

The taper part is the tricky part and comes with experience, trial and error. But in short you can cut the tree down to just about the height you want it.

Make a flat cut since you'll need buds to break at the top and aren't sure what you'll get. It won't be until the next year that you carve taper into one of those shoots that will then be like small branches at the top of your tree. You'll pick one to go into and remove the next and allow the one you choose togrow. It will get really tall and look goofy but that's how you'; heal the scar that you'll have from the taper cut.


They love water and can be kept wet...unlike most other trees..so no fear of
overwatering. The roots can be cut at the same time you trunk chop...do it before new spring growth appears..late winter.

It will probably grow quicker in the ground but potted it'll maintain a shallow rootsystem which is what you ultimately need.
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