First step with Kiyo Hime?

Neild

I have attached a pic of a large grafted Kyo Hime maple. The graft union is visible but only in it's color difference, it is very smooth and I think will look alright down the road. The trunk is 16" tall from the root base, the trunk is 4.25" wide, root spread is not visible but is about 7-8" wide. It has grown wild for 1yr or so, maybe a little more after being chewed on by a deer, maybe the whole herd, who knows.
I picked this up from a local nursery for $20.00. I figured why not see what happens, I've spent $20.00 in worse ways.

Obviously I will prune off any dead wood now. But, My question is:
Should I prune the new growth off this winter, or shorten it at least AND then reduce the root mas and plant into a training container. Or, leave the top alone except for the dead wood and repot.

I don't want to work the top and bottom if it will kill the thing. It would be a shame given it's survived the wilderness as long as it has.

Attached Images

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Fred-4-U

Do you want to thicken the branches ? Don't cut them back but let it grow, let it grow.

In spring you can cut back the roots and pot it.

sauce

Hi Neild, can't help with your questions since I am a Floridian. I do have one question though are you sure that it's not a banana tree? Seriously though it looks as if you got a good buy for $20.

Neild

Problem is, that many of the new branches are shoots from the dead chewed on stubs of older branches that are an inch or better around. The ends of those are a mess. Would it be best to keep as many good shoots as possible and then discard the obvious, repotting in spring?

midwestbonsai

Yeah whats up with the banana?

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zube

Neild, I wouldn't prune anything now. There is no advantage to be had by pruning it at this time of the year, and in fact you are only opening wounds that the tree can't heal yet. If it were mine, I think I would plant it in the ground in the spring and try to encourage all the new growth possible. Ideally, you would have a new leader started and could eliminate all of the large stubs and upper trunk in a couple of years. From what I have read, the main concern though is that Kiyohime are not apically dominant, and don't appreciate being chopped in this manner as might another type of Japanese maple. Hopefully someone with a bit of experience here can offer some advice.
Take care,
zube

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Sorry doesn't put thumbs back on the hand, Marge.
H. Simpson

zube

P.S.
Where I come from, we don't consider the back of the nursery 'the wilderness'.

__________________
Sorry doesn't put thumbs back on the hand, Marge.
H. Simpson

Neild

Thanks Zube.

Sauce, I didn't get the bannanna comment at 1st.

The bannanna is actually the handle of a small garden hand shovel I was using to remove some debris from the surface to get a look at the root base.

This particular nuruseries back row is definately wilderness: Deer, coyote, etc suburban Indianapolis is a jungle (lots of old hedge rows).

Appreciate the advices.

Dav4

Would you consider air-layering just above the graft union? I honestly don't know if this variety is difficult to air -layer, but you'd be rid of the graft and maybe have a nicer nebari in the long run. Like you said, it's only 20 bucks at stake. Just a thought, and nice find.

Dave