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First 'solo' Styling Of A Nursery Dwarf Blue Spruce

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Old 20-Jun-2004   #1
Happy Gilmore
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First 'solo' Styling Of A Nursery Dwarf Blue Spruce

(edited, see pics down below first few replies)
I've sure enjoyed reading this forum for some time now and in particular the "I did this/what do you think, or what do you suggest for this tree" etc, helps me conceive of ideas and work towards a more artistic outlook as I venture into this hobby.

Here's a nursery blue spruce bonsai I bought last fall for $7 when I first kicked off my collection bonsai habit.

~ 6-7 weeks ago I took one afternoon/early evening to beging removing the top few inches of soil from the nursery potting...took some 3-4 hours, found no roots originating from the trunk within the upper few inches and a large curving 'bulb' of trunk 2-3" down in the pot, almost like a spiral unsupported on one side and then sweeping (right to left) spiral roots coming from it's finish.


So this IMO told me this front sweeping spiral for nebari would be my 'front' (and behind these roots was the 'undercut' where this spiral trunk/bulb curved without support underneath so chose to hide this feature. (picture shown, undercut is on right side, by putting it at rear this lateral sweep appears as full trunk width IMO)


VERY glad to have now chosen a front, I realized the 'tray' I'd just used to sit it on while stripping dirt/exposing/untangling roots was actually not a bad size IMO for this to actually stay in for time being so worked in some soil, worked additional soil on top of the nebari I'd exposed for moist safe keeping during this transition phase (base rootball was actually quite shallow in depth/most roots came back up and around trunk above, hence untangling time). (I did mark an 'F' for front on the pot so I'd maintain the correct position as roots were now covered up and I wanted to keep this front).

A few weeks later (2 weeks ago now), I started trimming/deciding on structure etc.....I'm very short on appropriate wire and have only decided on lower 2/3 branch structure but haven't trimmed remaining branches much except removing some foliage on their tops and bottoms.......top is thinned out somewhat and I'll train a new branch as the apex/not sure what to tie it to the top with yet......fine wire and seal with grafting wax for now??

I intend to maintain the lateral 'step in the trunk's lower third and then straighten the upper 2/3's close to vertical and have apex directly over the base trunk likely. I've yet to wire the trunk, all wire on it was initial to help me see structure as I was doing initial pruning.

My first attempt at any solo styling and I very much enjoyed it, found the spruce very knobby, I'm just now working on concave cutting/sealing as I got some good tools and japanese paste this week.

I'm going to rewire the branches to be more horizontal to slightly leaning downward at base and angle rising slightly as we reach the apex. I found main challenges picking which branches to keep as typically one side would have 3 or 4 very strong/thick branches and other side only very small branches at one 'knob', so I tried to redirect one branch typically laterally and down and the other opposite direction and upward in first portion of branch, then taking rest of branch horizontal (not sure if I'm explaining this OK)...

here's a pic from a couple weeks ago (you see the 'F' for front on pot), any and all comments most welcome

Here's 1/4 turns, a left, back, then right view in order. (later I'll raise it to expose the nebari, not for a year or so at present)

PS, if this is more appropriate in another forum please let me know!

Last edited by Happy Gilmore : 20-Jun-2004 at 09:05 PM.
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Old 20-Jun-2004   #2
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PS, I have read the blue spruce comments/threads of late noting it's lack of responding to wiring and remaining in place...I'm wondering if I should be nicking bases of branches now and using graft compound to seal to help create scare tissue now to hold them in place later when wire's removed?? or too much stress for the tree? They're only 1/4" diam branches at most.
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Old 20-Jun-2004   #3
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you;ve did pretty good for a first. The top seems to be a little over crowded. What does nicking mean? I am not american/english.
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Old 20-Jun-2004   #4
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i think he means making small cuts at the bottom of branches.
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Old 20-Jun-2004   #5
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Thanks D3, I should be clearer when I start rambling nicks is a slang term for small cuts by which I meant small pie shaped/wedge cuts on the side or top/bottom etc, to help it finish in the desired position, remove the small slice if on compression side and put sealing compound, wire it to keep the gap closed and once healed it sounds like it should stay closer to that position instead of fully returning to pre wiring position

-if on tension side of branch then cut, fill cut with sealing compound or grafting compound and do as above.....

-as I understand it the resulting scar tissue helps to keep in place

The top is very dense (already thinned slightly in picture, was v.v. dense before) and I haven't yet decided if I want to go with a new leader or jin the top and reduce it a lot so I can strip down the top 'knob'......not sure how far one can go in bark stripping/carving adjacent to branches one wants to keep......
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Old 20-Jun-2004   #6
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You can do the nicking method you described, but if i were you i would let this tree for a few weeks. Don't know how long is your growing seasonBut remember, that even nicking a branch requires you to wire it, so first wire, then cut a v shaped cut in the branch.About the top: You should keep a maximum of 4 ranches in that area (including the leader). If you are going for a dead top style, then you should shari the whole top
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Old 20-Jun-2004   #7
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'front' nebari
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Old 20-Jun-2004   #8
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back view - nebari showing 'undercut/hollow' underneath on right side
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Old 20-Jun-2004   #9
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Pic 1 - front
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Old 20-Jun-2004   #10
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pic 2 - left view
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