Delayed Budding on Carpinus caroliniana

5-Apr-2005	#1
malhomme bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman Join Date: Feb-2005 Location: Austin, Texas USDA Zone: 8b AHS Heat Zone: 9 Posts: 795	Delayed Budding on Carpinus caroliniana I purchased an Ironwood (Carpinus caroliniana) early this Winter, and already being familiar with the repotting habits of the grower (terrific guy, just overwhelmed) I knew that it needed immediate blackbelt repotting. The hornbeam was collected from a boggy area 12 years ago and is probably under 20 years old. It is currently a graceful 12 inches tall. I was further prompted to repot it because of the derth of active buds, perhaps 20 in all. My thinking was that getting the tree into a healthier mix would strengthen the tree. When I repotted it in mid-February I found a lot of the original "field" soil/mud under the trunk. Despite the mud, it was nearly root bound with a large horse-collar where his mix was. I cut this out, untangled roots, and carefully washed the rootball. The finished root ball had, in my opinion, a great deal of fine roots. I covered the soil with sphagnum and kept it in a shady part of my bench. Having said all that, the problem is that the buds are not breaking. Everything else on my bench is budding out but this hornbeam. The branches are still wick... determined using the scratch test. But the budding is so delayed I'm getting worried now. Highs are 80-85° F. this week...more than enough to break dormancy. I'm thinking of spraying it down with Wilt-Pruf. Anyone have thoughts on handling delayed budding? TIA, Jim Last edited by malhomme : 5-Apr-2005 at 12:56 AM.

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5-Apr-2005	#2
jloeschner Archbonsaist in training Join Date: Aug-2004 Location: Marianna Country: United States USDA Zone: 7 AHS Heat Zone: 8 Posts: 479	Jim, I am speaking from complete ignorance, since I have no idea what "Wilt-Pruf" is. However, the name, "Wilt-Pruf" seems to imply that there needs to be some greenery to "proof" against wilting. Since your tree hasn't broken bud yet, and therefore has no greenery, what could "proofing" it against wilting do for it? Maybe you have already provided the answer, yourself. Perhaps repotting has stressed the tree to a degree that it needs a little more time to gather up the energy to break bud. If it were mine, I would simply wait. I have found that dousing plants with chemicals isn't always necessary. Do you have any other hornbeams to compare it to? If not, perhaps you could talk to the person you got it from and ask about its past springtime activities. It may just be a late bloomer... Regards, John __________________ Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement. QUI ME AMAT, AMAT ET CANEM MEAM

5-Apr-2005

malhomme

bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman

Join Date: Feb-2005

Location: Austin, Texas

USDA Zone: 8b

AHS Heat Zone: 9

Posts: 795

Quote:

Originally Posted by jloeschner

Since your tree hasn't broken bud yet, and therefore has no greenery, what could "proofing" it against wilting do for it?

First of all, thank you. My thought for using it is to prevent transpiration along the twiggy growth where the buds are. A similar product goes by the name of Cloud Cover.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jloeschner

Do you have any other hornbeams to compare it to?

All of my other Hornbeams have broken dormancy, by 3-4 weeks now. I'm sure that it has to do with the repotting, though I did my best. I've heard that the species really resents repotting. I very much hate the waiting game, especially with a nice tree. At this point I simply want to give it the best odds it can have at pulling through. This is why I'm considering a transpiration reducer like Wilt-Pruf.

I agree with you about not pouring on chemicals. There's a chemical to combat every ailment (or other chemical!).

It would also be helpful to hear from members that have familiarity with this species.

Thanks,
Jim

13-Apr-2005	#4
malhomme bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman Join Date: Feb-2005 Location: Austin, Texas USDA Zone: 8b AHS Heat Zone: 9 Posts: 795	An update: the ironwood's buds are turning green and one is even opening. The day of my first post I noticed that last years growth was shriveling so I sprayed the tree several times with Wilt-Pruf, a coating that reduces transpiration. After a delicate examination of the roots... they looked healthy and white... I covered the surface with moss and then placed it under a mister. The tree was propped to one side to increase drainage and then misted 3 times a day for 30 minutes. All of this seems to have helped as the buds are now coming out of dormancy. Thank you all for the encouragement to just be patient. Cheers, Jim

13-Apr-2005	#5
TreeBay Tips:5¢ Advice:Free *MODERATOR GROUP* Join Date: Aug-2001 Location: Silicon Valley Country: USA USDA Zone: 9 AHS Heat Zone: 4 Posts: 9,742	Glad your plant came back. I don't think misting a tree that hasn't budded has any real purpose, but if it feels good... Regards, Matt __________________ Want to be a seller on bonsaiAUCTIONS? Get authorized today! bonsaiTALK: Over 100,005.36 Megabytes Served this Month!

13-Apr-2005	#6
malhomme bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman Join Date: Feb-2005 Location: Austin, Texas USDA Zone: 8b AHS Heat Zone: 9 Posts: 795	Matt, Why wouldn't misting help in this instance? It's very hot and dry here, and the wind howls from the NW into my backyard, unimpeded by even a proper fence. Wouldn't misting help the tree retain as much moisture as possible as it re-coups, especially in this kind of enviroment? Cheers, Jim

13-Apr-2005	#7
midwestbonsai bonsaiTALK Master Chief Join Date: Feb-2005 Location: Madison, WI Country: USA USDA Zone: 4-5 AHS Heat Zone: 4-5 Posts: 1,696	I also have a Carpinus caroliniana or American Hornbeam out side and all of the trees around have broke bud. Except for this one. I have had it for about a year, my first winter with it. Is there anything that can be done? Thanks -Paul __________________ KoB Progressive Styling Contest Sponsored By Bonsai Focus Magazine!

13-Apr-2005	#8
rockm bonsaiTALK ArchMaster Join Date: Oct-2003 Location: Fairfax, Va Country: USA USDA Zone: 7 AHS Heat Zone: ? Posts: 4,561	The misting may have helped, but the Wilt-pruf was of little help. You can 't prevent transpiration in plants with no leaves, as there is very little, if any transpiration going on. You may actually inhibit leafing out, since you're applying a sealant to the buds... I think the late leafing had more to do with an overwintering problem. The plant's roots may have died back a bit, or some other problem that forced the plant to set new buds. If they are new sets of buds, the plant has drawn deeply on its resources to make them. It bears close monitoring this spring and summer to make sure it regains strength. Paul, It may just be sulking. Put it in full morning sun. Keep it moist (but not wet) Wait until mid-June before acting rashly...

13-Apr-2005	#9
midwestbonsai bonsaiTALK Master Chief Join Date: Feb-2005 Location: Madison, WI Country: USA USDA Zone: 4-5 AHS Heat Zone: 4-5 Posts: 1,696	Thanks rockm, i will do that __________________ KoB Progressive Styling Contest Sponsored By Bonsai Focus Magazine!

15-Apr-2005	#10
FredL Banned 08JUN2005 Join Date: Dec-2001 Location: Benton County Country: USA USDA Zone: 6 AHS Heat Zone: ? Posts: 1,099	Jim, I can't comment on your tree. I've been told they grow in our area, but I haven't seen them. We do have a closely related species, Hophornbeam, Ostrya virginiana, which is very common and very easy to grow and maintain. I have several of them, many started from tap roots of trees that resulted from root pruning trees that were three or four years old when I potted them from out of my grow bed. They develop into very nice "Clump Style" trees. Anyway, what I have observed is that they pretty well always recover eventually, no matter how severe the root pruning. However, severely root pruned trees will sulk for weeks, even months before breaking bud in the Spring or resuming growth later in the year. Especially if the branches have been pruned and growth is starting from latent buds that have to make their way to the surface from inside the branches. So, my experience indicates that if you are patient, this tree will almost certainly recover and that what it is going through is quite normal for Hornbeams. I am having very good luck with these trees which develop from seedlings to excellent material very quickly in only a few years. The only thing that I don't like about them is that their branches and particularly their roots are very tough and stringy and tend to bind my cheap pruners that I use for rough work instead of cutting cleanly. Hope this is helpful Fred

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