Cut Paste/wound Sealant?

TreeBay

I really hope that anyone who tries this has a fume hood and a paid-up insurance policy on their home.

The administration of this forum strongly suggests its readers purchase a tube or tub of wound sealant from your favorite bonsai dealer, or stick to using aluminum foil, earwax or your favorite bonsai remedy that does not involve fire and oil.

Regards,

Matt

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LivingArt

ahahahahaha matt. yeah enough with the bill nye the science guy stuff go buy some cut paste it's 12 bucks. lol

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TreeBay Bonsai Tools & Supplies

growermn

Hello again everone. Has been a while since my last visit and post to this great forum. I have been very busy with new g-baby, so dont have the time i would like to visit and to post. I do remember posting on this subject, i never made a [mess] mixing the [non drying] clay with the oil, just rubbed them together well and applyed. I leave the clay on for half a year, than check progress, and add more, usually smaller amount is neccesary because of healing. I have never tried to melt them together, so i dont know how that would work. Well getting the real stuff is always better of course, sometimes you need anotherway to receive the same goals. That was what my original posting was for. Glad some of you have tried it. I find before i take off the old clay, that getting it wet for a few days ahead helps to losen it up from the healed bark. Hope the helps. Jeff-growerman

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Learn and grow....

ripsgreentree

I can tell you all that I have tried many of the examples that have been listed in the several articles that have been posted to this forum.

In the end you will find that the only products that really work are the professional cut pasts or some product that is very simular.
If you use nothing you will eventually be unhappy because small cuts will never heal. If you use the wrong product the cuts will heal so badly that you will end up recutting an even larger wound to heal.

My money says that eventually you will come to the same conclution and start using good cut past.

Remember that the goal is for the cambium to heal over and the cut past to drop off leaving an exceptable scar that will eventually blend into the tree so as to not be terribly noticable.
In the photos below each cut was made and sealed in January of this year so we are looking at 8 months. The cut on the left is a contorted elm and the cut was the size of the end of your little finger. The cut on the right is a kiyohime maple and the size of the cut was the end of my thumb or approx one inch. You all keep in mind that these cuts have healed in less that one growing season.

The cut past used was the expensive Japanese paste with the green lid.

Glenn

Attached Images

cutexample.jpg (19.4 KB, 148 views)

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ripsgreentree

It requires an open hand to give and to recieve.

ripsgreentree

To all of you that are giving advise that falls outside of excepted techniques, (elmers glue, gasket sealer, vasoline, and the like) could you please also post some pictures of healed cuts and the time line of how long the healing process has taken. It seems to me that if these things have worked well, you should be able to give us some examples of that success.

Just something to think about.

Glenn

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ripsgreentree

It requires an open hand to give and to recieve.

dannecgf

I agree. The green capped cut past from DallasBonsai.com is by far the best and is well worth the money. To spend all that time on a tree you will want to use good cut paste.

TreeBay

There are a couple of cut pastes with green caps. Do you mean the liquid (Kalusmate) or the putty (Kattopasuta-)?

Regards,

Matt

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conor

I have a really cheap source of really good quality grafting wax and I have not been able to find any real cut paste. It seems to me that it would make a good substitute for cut paste, if it can seal a graft, why not a cut, but, I don't have the best common sense, so, if anyone has any advice, please fill me in.

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-Conor

nathan

I have read some information but some skilled bonsai hobbiest who use vaseline. Just a thought

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-nathan