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Cut Paste/wound Sealant?

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Old 24-Aug-2003   #1
kvnharv29
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Cut Paste/wound Sealant?

I dont have any special bonsai wound sealant, or cut paste, but i use modeling clay. Is this okay or do i HAVE to have some cut paste/sealant?
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Old 24-Aug-2003   #2
LivingArt
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you need cut paste! it helps the wounds seal over. i recommend Shin-kiyonal http://www.treebay.com/index.html?t...A=32&B=SUPPLIES Shin-kiyonal has a tooth paste like consistency which remains soft and sticky even when exposed to air. The product contains ingredients which help with the healing process. Because of its "flowing" properties, it can also be used as a sealant when making grafts.
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Last edited by LivingArt : 24-Aug-2003 at 08:49 PM.
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Old 24-Aug-2003   #3
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DUDE, ANYTHING with bonsai is twice as mutch.
use what ever keeps those sweet sweet bonsai juices in.
like elmers glue or petro jelly
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Old 24-Aug-2003   #4
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We've gone over this territory time and time again on this board. Among the better discussions include the following:

http://forum.bonsaitalk.com/showthr...=&threadid=2474

http://forum.bonsaitalk.com/showthr...=&threadid=2109

http://forum.bonsaitalk.com/showthr...=&threadid=1594

Notice that in third of these threads, Bonsainut sings the praises of plasticine as a cut paste substitute.

Best regards,
OMC
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Old 24-Aug-2003   #5
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I am in need of some more cut paste. I think this time I will save some money and get the industrail paint can size one. I think that the more experienced you get the more you want to use the propor tools and supplies.
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Old 24-Aug-2003   #6
kvnharv29
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I just started bonsai and learned of the modeling clay mixed with olive oil in a book, so thats what i use like jeff in the first post OMC put up.
I've had it on a maple and an oak for about a month so i let u guys know how it heals.
Seems to me like its all trial and error so ill stick with this unless someone shows some good evidence that special cut paste is best
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Old 25-Aug-2003   #7
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One thing about modeling clay is it is a bear to get off. I have a hornbeam which I tried mixing a special color to match a few years ago. I would need a knife or acetone to get the rest of it off, and that's from a smooth-barked tree.

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Matt
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Old 25-Aug-2003   #8
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I have had reasonable success with the clay/oil mix. The key I think is getting the two ingredients well mixed. You can't just splash some cooking oil over the clay and be done. The oil will run off and the clay will then dry out. Try putting a smear of the raw clay on a sunny bit of fence panel. Within days it will have dried out and be hell to remove. The oil slow this drying, and if applied with care (ie not all over the bark) the mix does work.

If you want to use the clay/oil mix, what you need to do is mix, knead, pummel and scraunch the two ingredients for about 20 minutes, until you achieve the consistency Matt says the real stuff is, ie toothpaste. Your hands will be covered in it, all under your nails etc. Wrap it in cooking foil and leave for a couple of weeks. After this time, it should harden a bit, almost back to the old consistency of the raw clay. Then, apply carefully. After that, do what I will be doing soon, and buy a pot of the real thing... much easier and cleaner.

Regards,

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Old 25-Aug-2003   #9
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i've never used clay mixtures so i can't contrast with what i use but i can point out some attributes of the Shin-Kiyonal that are very important.
1. shrinks with wound
2. aids healing
3. goes on thin for minimal appearance
4. can be used with grafting or rot protection (will not shrink if applied over the edges of a wound or on a wound that is no longer healing)
5. sticks to area easily even when wound is under limb

now what i do not know is if it does well in cold climates??
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Old 25-Aug-2003   #10
kvnharv29
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Another way of mixing the clay/oil mixture is to heat the clay up on a stove top then add the oil and let it cool its not the right texture then heat it up again and add more oil. Somebody posted this on one of the links that omc put up
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