Check your wiring!

nsmar4211

So after spending 35 minutes doing emergency wire removal........... thought I'd post a *poke* to all of us busy bees to go check that wiring you did earlier. Adding 4 or 5 years onto a trees development time because you didn't remove the wire fast enough stinks... *sigh*...... Hard to believe how fast they grow sometimes!

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agraham

I have been unwiring continuously this week it seems.I was thinking I'd have at least 2 months of growth before i had to worry about it. ....it's turning into 3 or 4 weeks and the wire is scarring the branches.For everyone who envies the tropical growing conditions....trees may develop quicker..but it's just as much if not more work.

andy

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irene_b

Ah.....
I just love the pinch and grow method
Don't have to worry about that nasty wire.
Irene

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jfecme

And I like the hanging weight method as well. Both are so much easier.

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irene_b

Hehehehe.....Me too
Hey you two wise up and do it the better way!

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clrosner

I do keep a daily dairy! If I wire a tree. I always have a tickle date of 30 days to check the wiring... It has worked fine for me....

I do love to pinch as well, but some trees need a bit of wire to give them that extra shape I require... (at least that is my hope!!! )

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007

I've wired a couple of my tree's once or twice before . . . it has never turned out well for me. The wire would bite in by three weeks (which made me think i was doing something wrong, but apparently not) and I'd have to re-do it.

Now, I grow and shape via directional pruning. It has worked beautifully for me thus far.

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watzone69

[QUOTE=nsmar4211] *sigh* [QUOTE]

I feel your pain!

I had this happen last month to a sagaretia that I had wired last winter.

I'm hoping it will heal faster since they have shedding bark. Anyone have experience with "flaky" trees?

Mike

grampz

‘Clip and grow’ is a wonderful training method, but on most trees wiring will make the difference between a tree that is ok and one that is 'wow'...Weights and guy wires are also very good, but will never give you the versatility needed to truly control the way a branch or trunk bends and moves...Learning to use wire to the best advantage will make all the difference in your trees...We must all learn to read and work with the tree, but limiting yourself on the methods to achieve your vision is kind of like the old 'three leg race'...It will slow you down...

A few thoughts on wiring...Most important, learn your tree...Time schedules, and 'proper according to the book' does not always give the best results on all species, or even individual trees within a species...As has been eluded to already, your growing conditions and zone will also affect the results of your wiring...

Not all species react the same to wiring and training...Wiring is best done on most trees when the growth has slowed...Some trees 'set' best by forming callous on injuries...Some species set best when the wire is allowed to 'dig' in just slightly, and this can also add character...

Some wiring needs to be executed in such a manner that the wire helps to support a bend rather than look pretty...While wiring at approximately a 45 degree angle is most efficient for holding power and to use less wire, it is not always the best for all trees and all applications...

Lateral wires laid length wise on a branch before wiring not only gives added support to the bend, but also serves to help prevent those 'tale tale' spiral wire marks that we all hate to see on our trees...

Wrapping a branch first with raffia or a substitute not only helps with preventing cambium injuries, but also allows wires to remain in place longer before damage occurs...

It has been pointed out to me in the past on trees I have posted that my wiring is 'not properly executed' so now I know that it is better for me to wait until training is finished on a tree, and the wire is removed...If you are intending to show a tree with wire on it, I would certainly agree the wire should be according to 'convention'...However, if you are only using the wire to achieve a purpose, then make the wiring work for you and the tree, instead of doing it to look good or 'proper'...

These are just my thoughts, and I certainly realize they are NOT the popular way of thinking...I often believe things are taught a certain way in order to allow even the 'un-skilled' and the 'novice' to make it work...Whether or not it is the best way, it is the easiest way to teach...

Regards
Behr

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