Bonsai Watering Question

rockm

"One side benefit of organic fertilizer is it tends to push the pH down, but if you're in an area with atmospheric pollutants (like acid rain) it might not help!"

I don't get what you mean. PH levels on the acidic side are on the low end of the scale. If you're in an area that tends to get acid rain and you're using an organic fertilizer than also lowers pH, your soil may wind up being more than slightly acidic.

For what it's worth, I use a combination of "organic" and "chemical" fertilizers. I apply Bio gold nuggets and feed full strength miracle grow and Peters (alternating prepared ferts fills in micro nutrient gaps) every couple of weeks from mid-April or so up until July. I wait for the end of August to start again with the prepared chemical stuff, leaving the bio gold on through the hottest part of the summer. Most of the trees slow down significantly during this period and don't require the same levels of fertilizer they do in the Spring. I pick up again with the prepared ferts again as fall approaches, using a slightly modified mix that is a little lower in N with greater levels of P and K to set the plants up for dormancy.

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mushashi

Wow this place is like a veritable bonsai university!

I agree with rockm, I was a little confused by Matt's ph explanation too. By the way, what is the best way to test the ph? Should I just get a generic swimming pool ph test kit or something?

I still suspect that my problem has something to do with going from tap water to RO water. I am switching back to tap water for a month to see if I notice a difference.

By the way has anyone used Dr. Earth's liquid fertilizer concentrate? It is a 3-3-3 and is organic with many macro-nutrients. Not as complete as the 7-9-5 Dyno-Gro stuff, but pretty close.

Anyway, I hope that my trees start greening up a bit. They are not really bad just look a little too yellow.

Also, does anyone know a good person in my area that is really good with Bald Cypress and both Japanese White and Black pine styling and care? I think I might need some one on one with a more experienced person especially with a couple of my potential specimen type trees.

Thanks, sorry to drift off topic.....

rockm

All of this discussion on pH is really just pie in the sky for the most part. Most plants, with the exception of 'Lime haters" like azalea, camelia, stewartia and a few others, can survive in the pH range found in typical bonsai soil. It's rarely a substantial problem if you keep up with repotting--unchanged soil can become too acidic over a period of years, depending on where you are.

Acid lovers like blueberries and the like can have more organic material added to their soil mix to compensate.

I don't measure pH in my soil. Others do. I find it's too much work for not enough return. It can also lead to alot of misguided futzing with the soil that's really counterproductive. I also suspect that your R.O. may be at the root of your problem. Tap water is usually adequate for a limited collection of bonsai, unless you get your water from a local well.

As for a good source of BC refinement in Calif., you're not in the best place for them. You might contact the local bonsai club to see if anyone has been growing a specimen or two and ask for assistance. You might even ask if you could help with care of someone else's established BC. This can give you hands-on experience in repotting and pruning, etc. I've had people ask me to help repot and style mine. Believe me, I welcomed it, especially with the bigger trees.

mushashi

Sounds like a good idea on the BC! Mine probably has a way to go before I have to worry about slant cutting no new leader yet and the I am just starting to see new shoots come out after having it shipped to me almost bareroot about 75%, not the best thing to do this time of year but it seems to be bouncing back okay in alot of mucky soil as Guy Guidry called it.


Any thoughts on JWP or JBP help in the area?

I agree about the testing it takes too much time and makes you start to become too granular(pun intended) analyzing your soil and water. I like to keep it simple and as I said I think I noticed the yellowing after the water change. It happened so slowly it was hard to tell, but it is an interesting safe experiment since they were doing fine before on tap water. I guess as the saying goes: if it ain't broke don't fix it!

Thanks again.....

jeremy_norbury

You can buy a simple ph measurement kit or even small electronic ph devices at most decent garden centres.

BTW, when searching for PH meaurement I realised that there are also moisture measurement devices available - does anyone use one of these?

Jerry

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sauce

I agree with RO water being part if not all of the problem. It doesn't have the minerals that ground water has. Also a lot of organic ferts don't have the trace elements that chemical ferts have. I use tap water and rotate ferts. I use Bio-Gold, seaweed/fish emulsion, and 7-9-5 Dyna Grow along with MirAcid for those trees that like it. I believe that different ferts offer different things to the tree and personally I would never apply any one single fert year round. That's just my humble opinion. BTW what Bay Area are you in? If you're interested there is an excellent BC collector/grower in La. named Guy Guidry here's a link to his site http://www.bonsainorthshore.com/ if you've never been there check out the Twister.

PatArizona

Some time back I tried a moisture meter...not at all satisfactory. A bamboo skewer or a toothpick (for shohins) works just fine for me.


As for pH, ROCKm said "...pH is really just pie in the sky for the most part...". That's my take also.

For soil mix, fertilizer, and more...I'm from the KISS school...Keep It Simple Shorty.
Pat

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