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#21 |
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bonsaiTALK Journeyman
Join Date: Jun-2004
Location: Spring Texas
Country: United States
Posts: 12
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Hay, King30
That may not be a bad idea w/my skinny little baldy. If I killed it I could cut it off @ the base, strip all the limbs off, tie a string and hook on it and fishing in the San Antomio River. That way I could get a look @ Grampz's trees.
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#22 | |
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Behr Appleby
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Quote:
As a matter of fact I live right on the San Antonio River...and if you know sometime you are going to be in town and have a bit of time send me a PM I would love to meet you [you will probably be dissapointed in my trees, I have only been doing bonsai again for a little over a year] Now on with the way I grow on baldys... I do not try to create a swamp this is impossible…as has been stated so eloquently before on this forum, a swamp is an extremely delicate eco system…but I do grow the trees on in water…As mentioned earlier I will not recommend this due to others that have evidently had problems with this method…those that have spoken out against this do live in different climate conditions than I do…perhaps it is the difference in climate, although I have used this method in New Orleans, San Antonio, Southeast Missouri, and Central Kansas, with no problems…perhaps my method is somewhat different than the methods they have used…If they read this and see obvious differences, I do hope they will add to this thread to comment on the differences…or if others have tried a similar technique and had problems I hope they will also speak up…I have only used this on very young collected material [pencil size] and 2 gal or under nursery stock…I just know it has been very successful for me…So much for the disclaimer… You need a container that will last 3 or 4 years…I used an old redwood pot that was left at our home by the couple that lived here previous to us [this is why I stated IF I get a couple more seasons from it]…I do prefer wood and redwood is one of the most durable when left in the weather…you can use plastic but most of them quickly break down in sunlight[perhaps something from a farm supply or a heavy duty ‘RubberMaid’]…If you can’t find a good ready-made, you can always build your own…it is not that difficult and any shape will do…no drainage holes are a plus…the container should be about a foot deeper than the height of the nursery container, and 3 to 4 times as wide… I line the box with heavy plastic garbage bags…I used four 55-60 gal size for this pot…I cut off the tops folded them and placed them in the bottom for extra cushion…then I placed all 4 bags one inside the other until I had 4 thicknesses of the bags…placed them in the pot, and put about 3 inches of ‘garden soil’ [from Home Depot--NOT potting soil--this is the clay and sand stuff they sell as garden soil, or lawn filler—I have also seen it at HEB and Lowe’s]… I remove the plant from the nursery container, and try to remove a small amount of the soil on top [until I reach some of the larger roots]…then I gently loosen the soil around the sides…then use just a little more forcefulness on the bottom to remove some of the nursery potting soil [about an inch of soil from the bottom is good]…I always use only my fingers for this…the plant is then placed into the center of the container and it is filled with the same ‘garden soil’, tamping gently as you go, until it covers the top about an inch …[it will settle with adding of the water]…adding some slow release fertilizer with micro nutrients according to directions as you fill is something I also do [use your own discretion on this]…next step is to water-in…just keep filling until it has all become saturated and no longer bubbles…check the soil, and add a bit more if it does not come up to the top of the root ball [a ¼ inch or so extra will not hurt]…next I add more water to a depth of about 2 inches…you then need to secure the plastic bags to the pot…with wood I use thin cardboard and a staple gun [the cardboard will keep the staples from going all the way through the plastic and last long enough for everything to get settled in]…if you use plastic perhaps you could tie a wire or rope around the bags after folding over the edge, or maybe duct tape…I then trim the excess plastic bag edges away… For several weeks I only water when the top of the soil shows dryness…I think it helps to acclimate the tree [although I have had the rains keep the pot filled for several weeks with no ill effects]…I then try to keep at least an inch or so of water above the soil line for a couple months… Keep a close eye on it because mosquitoes love this environment…if you began to see larva swimming it is good to dip out all the water and leave it dry for a couple days… I am currently using an irrigation system that waters every day, and adds about an inch of water to the pot…this time of year it evaporates or is used by the tree most days [usually I have no standing water by about 1:00 pm [however if we have heavy rains move in from the gulf that sometimes last 3 or 4 weeks the pot stays full most of the time]…when watering by hose I usually tried to do about the same, bringing the level up to an inch or so…I still water twice a week with a hose [that is when I need to water the missus hanging plants that don’t get the irrigation system]…I also usually water my trees in small pots at the same time and usually bring the level up to a couple inches in the baldy, if it is the dry season…when the tree is dormant I just use about the same method [have had ice on the water a couple times up north, but I usually tried to remove the standing water before freeze and wrapped the pot with fiberglass insulation batts]…No real science to the watering, the main thing is to not let it dry out very deep [after all even a swamp does not maintain the same level all the time]… I fertilize when I do my other plants and use ‘Miracid’…it is best to do it when the soil has no standing water, although I have several times just poured the mixed fertilizer right into the water [CAUTION: you will get a beautiful green algae skin form on the surface of the water for several days if you pour it into the water]…In the spring when new buds start popping I usually scratch the surface a bit add more slow release fertilizer with micro nutrients according to directions and just top off the soil to cover the fertilizer… As the tree begins to become root bound you will be more likely to see flutes form and possibly even knees… Photos to follow Regards Behr ![]() |
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#23 |
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Behr Appleby
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First photo setup and taper [the tree had none really and only 3/4 inch diameter when planted in this pot on 8-7-03]…I only wish I had owned a digital cam when I started the tree…
Regards Behr ![]() |
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#24 |
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Behr Appleby
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Another view…I will probably try to start adding more movement soon using guy wires…
Regards Behr ![]() |
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#25 |
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Behr Appleby
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The base…this side actually measures 2 1/8 inches…
Regards Behr ![]() |
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#26 |
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Behr Appleby
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Another view of the base…this side measures 2 ¼ inches and appears to be starting to form a flute on the left side…
Regards Behr ![]() |
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#27 |
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bonsaiTALK Journeyman
Join Date: Jun-2004
Location: Spring Texas
Country: United States
Posts: 12
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grampz,
Thanks for the info. I will look around for something to plant in. I now have the nursery pot setting in another small base (the kind for house plants) that is on rollers that holds water that I fill up every couple of days so its standing in water. I like your method better so I"m going to give it a try. Again thanks for the info. & YES, I do need to make a trip to S.A. soon( can hear the River Walk calling me) and thanks for the invite.
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Old Texan |
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#28 |
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bonsaiTALK ArchMaster
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Younger bald cypress will grow pretty agressively no matter what you put them in. They grow faster if they're not constantly soggy though. Some drainage allows better root development. Air drawn into the root pad when water drains through the soil promotes new root growth.
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#29 |
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bonsaiTALK Craftsman
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Bald Cypress
Thanks for the reply Thomas, i aim to give it a go, will have to wait for a decent one to come up for sale on E-bay. Just wondering, as i have a large plastic tub about 2ft across, if i planted it in there i could give it marshy conditions, would it grow any better, or faster? or just pot up as normal with drainage. I will let it dry out a bit as winter approaches and shift it into my garage that has a large roof- light. Cheers.
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#30 |
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bonsaiTALK Craftsman
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Bald Cypress
Well !! that last post i made appears to be a waste of time, for some reason "Grampz" thread did not appear until i posted reply, so he has answered my questions. Hmm.
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