Air layering: theory behind the practice

Bonsai Barry

In the book, "Bonsai: Its art, science history and philosophy", author Deborah Koreshoff states, " When severing the layer from the parent plant, more care may be used by cutting through half-way. leaving the layer for a week and then cutting through the rest of the way."

What is the reasoning behind this approach? I can't think of any benefit, but it does seem likely that the new tree spends a week with half of the suppliment supplied by the mother tree.

Any thoughts?

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Bonsai Barry

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Will_Heath

The tree would also spend a week without the nutrients of the half that is removed as well as losing a week of root development.

Removing all of the bark and applying sphagnum moss immediately works so well on most trees, I do not understand why we would vary the technique. Although I have found that with pines it is beneficial to leave two thin connecting strips of bark, I still apply moss immediately.

I too am interested in the logic behind these thoughts.



Will

taipan(deceased)

Hi Will and Barry, I just phoned Kenneth, Deborah's husband and he will ask her tomorrow morning for you. I'll post back here what the theory behind the two separate cuts is.

As far as I can tell using sphagnum moss on conifers can be risky due to the fragility of the roots. If you use sphagnum moss you have to keep checking it to see when the roots are about 1/2 cm long then take the cutting before the roots get a chance to entangle themselves into the moss making it very difficult or even impossible to remove the moss without damaging the very fragile root system most conifers develop through aerial layering.

One thought Kenneth had was to remember to make the aerial layer cut at the exact angle you wish to plant the tree in the soil, This will develop a better root system from the start.

The best way I can see to aerial layer is to cut a pot in half and then place it directly onto the tree at the layer site so the tree can develop roots straight into the soil without the need for transplant.

Normal deciduous trees can be cut and planted with 6-8 weeks but some conifers can take years to form a good root system and not just a callus through which the plant can feed but it will not be enough to sustain the plant if cut and placed into soil.

Patience is a must when aerial layering conifers.

Kenneth reminded me the book was written in the 1980's and as with bonsai, new and exciting techniques are being developed all the time.

Back tommorow with the answer
Happy growing
Tai

Will_Heath

I solve this problem with all my air-layers by simply cutting the sphagnum moss into 1/8 inch pieces before using it.

Thanks for doing the leg work on these questions, I appreciate it.


Will

Bonsai Barry

Will, I think the quote may have been misunderstood out of context. I think she agreed with what you said regarding the sphagnum moss. It was at the end of the process, once the roots have formed, the air-layered portion is removed in two steps. First cutting through half of the trunk and, one week later, removing the air-layer completely.

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Bonsai Barry

"Our talent lies in our choices."

Will_Heath

Ah, now that makes more sense.

Little_John

Since we're on the topic, I've got a tree that will require air layering. I've done it once successfully and once unsuccessfully. Now, I've leared from reading and practice, so I'm no expert on anything. Jack of all trades master of none...that kind of thing.

Here's the question, one of the books I read said to air layer by cutting into the tree, putting root hormone, put a toothpick in the cut to keep it open, wrap it etc. But they only did one side. Wouldn't that have the tree growing lopsided until the roots on the other side caught up?

Now as I stated I've got a 50% success ratio on this and to me that is unacceptable. Fill me in, bring me up to speed, pretty please.

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ripssurf

I, myself, am no expert either but...

I have found success layering using different techniques for deciduous and coniferous trees.

For my deciduous trees (ie maples) i took a little ziploc tupperware dish and cut a hole in the bottom and a slit in the side. I will freely admit to having stole the idea from another thread on this website (i dont know where it is now, but if you need to have it, i will find it for you later). I then cut a layer of the bark completely away and slathered the ring with rooting hormone, placed peat humus in the container which itself was placed around the ring. I then put the lid on (to keep it moist and humid, and a week later there were roots all over the place. it took about two months to get a successful air layer of a Red Maple (acer rubrum).

for my coniferous trees, i have been following Yuji Yoshimura's techinque as described in his book "The Art of Bonsai". He lists three different techniques for layering, but the one suggested for conifers says to take a copper wire and wrap it slightly below the start of the area you want to layer. the wire must be tight; it must cut into the bark but not sever the cambium. slather the area with rooting hormone, wrap in sphagum moss (the wonder moss) and wrap it with industrial plastic. i havent taken this layer yet, but i have roots about 2-3 inches long poking out of the tree into the moss.

as far as the toothpick goes...i have no idea why you would leave it in, but i have heard of techniques (and done it) where you take a drill and make a whole about the size of a toothpick in the trunk where you want the root to come out. place rooting hormone inside using a toothpick or cotton swab, and roots should form in time.

bonsai barry and Little_John, i know this doesnt answer your questions, but it's a start...

still waiting to hear from taipan...

jeff

ps the best way to learn the techinique is to just do your best and kill the tree (if that's what happens). Eventually, youll figure out how to do it and your success rate will skyrocket.

node

Interesting thread. I always like to have a few pictures with these things, so here's a couple so everybody knows what the talk is all about.

Pic 1: Airlayer on a beech. Ring-method. Closed up on me on the first try, carved it open again, now more or less one year later I got it going pretty good. (done outdoor)

Pic 2: Airlayer on Ficus Benjamina, about 4 weeks into the process. Ring-method as well. (done indoor)

Attached Images

	Airlayer_Fagus_Sylvatica_Atropunicea.jpg (50.1 KB, 65 views)
	Airlayer_Ficus_Benjamina.jpg (64.5 KB, 68 views)

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