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Air layer hasn't gone well

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Old 14-Sep-2006   #1
Wolfus
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Air layer hasn't gone well

I have an Ulmus Parvifolia/Chinese Elm that I attempted my first air layer on. The tree is almost 9 foot tall and I made the layer at approx 2 foot leaving 6’ plus above that. My initial goal was to get 3 tree’s out of this over 2 years. I made the layer on June 5th. The end of July I removed the plastic wrap to see what had developed inside. To my dismay and surprise there was only 1 small root pushing from the large callous which formed at the upper cut. The picture shows the tiny root to the left. The trunk is approx ¾ inch diameter.

The same day, June 5th, I also did a Hackberry. Over the weekend I checked it and there were more roots and some of those had started turning brown so I thought I’d try removing it. This layer had approx 2 feet above the cut. It did not fair well at all. Almost all of the leaves turned crisp and brittle. The advice I got was to remove some of the top of the tree and cut the width back to reduce the foliage. I’ve done this and tented the remaining foot of trunk with plastic to retain moisture.

My main concern now is the Ulmus. I REALLY do not want to lose all of this upper footage. First frost could come in as little as 4-5 weeks though it us usually a bit later for my particular area. I have not recently removed the plastic wrap to see what lies beneath it but I’m guessing not much more, if any, than the Hackberry.

If I decided to abort the air layer could I now and not jeopardize the tree? Would this callous heal over and allow me to take shorter cuttings next year?

If this can be done what should I do about the cut now.

I’m really concerned and need advice on this….



Thanks,

David
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File Type: jpg Ulmus layer close.JPG (40.7 KB, 140 views)
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Old 14-Sep-2006   #2
Carl_Bergstrom
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Hi David,

Your best bet with the elm is probably to repeat the layer next year, cutting again near the top of the callous. Wrap the moss or other rooting medium well above the cut site; be sure that the cut area never dries out even for part of a day.

I've had several successes on "second tries" of this sort.

Best regards,
Carl
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Old 14-Sep-2006   #3
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i had the same thing happen on a non bonsai dogwood a few years back. i didn't know what to do so i left it but made lots of cuts in burl like growth, and tried again. IT DIED! my advice is to remove that funk and try again.
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Old 14-Sep-2006   #4
Wolfus
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Carl,
Are you saying abort this for this year? I'm only guessing here that the upper part of this tree is no longer providing anything to the base root system. Will this have any effect on the tree going dormant now? (Storing in the roots for next Spring).
Would you put some sort of cut paste on this Callous mass now well before frost date?

Still panicked and in need of advice.
Thanks,
David

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Originally Posted by Carl_Bergstrom
Hi David,

Your best bet with the elm is probably to repeat the layer next year, cutting again near the top of the callous. Wrap the moss or other rooting medium well above the cut site; be sure that the cut area never dries out even for part of a day.

I've had several successes on "second tries" of this sort.

Best regards,
Carl
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Old 14-Sep-2006   #5
Carl_Bergstrom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfus
Carl,
Are you saying abort this for this year? I'm only guessing here that the upper part of this tree is no longer providing anything to the base root system. Will this have any effect on the tree going dormant now? (Storing in the roots for next Spring).
Would you put some sort of cut paste on this Callous mass now well before frost date?

Still panicked and in need of advice.
Thanks,
David


Hi David,

Yes, that's what I'm suggesting. My procedure has always been to simply leave the tree packed in moss over the winter (protecting for the winter in a cold frame) and then re-cut in the Spring.

As for the health of the tree, I'd think that as long as you have foliage below the layer, worse case scenario would be that you'd lose the upper portion only.

Best regards,
Carl
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Old 14-Sep-2006   #6
Wolfus
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At 8 foot+ a cold frame isn't a viable option. I've considered trying to winter the whole thing in an unheated room of the house but that only gets in the mid to upper 50's. The ceilings in the house are 9'6" so I know it would fit in there. Bright light would be the only thing it would get in there though. It's on hte North side of the house.
This is a picture of the entire tree. You can see the foil covering the layer now and the top of the tree goes to the top of the porch posts so I'm figuring there is about 7 foot above the cut I'd lose if I lose it.

David
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File Type: jpg Whole Ulmus -1.JPG (48.5 KB, 89 views)
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Last edited by Wolfus : 14-Sep-2006 at 03:49 PM.
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Old 14-Sep-2006   #7
DwightFloyd
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Isn't it possible that the roots just havn't formed and might form next season. I did some air layering in college and some took two full seasons to develop enough root to remove and plant. I also remember it wasn't successful all the time , more like 75%
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Old 15-Sep-2006   #8
Wolfus
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Dwight,
There are roots in the plastic wrap but I fear not enough to support 7 foot of tree above it. In the research I had done prior to attempting this I did not see anywhere where it said the layer could only be XX inches/feet long. The Hackberry obviously did not have enough roots to sustain it's height and the Ulmus is 3 times that one.

David
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Old 15-Sep-2006   #9
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If I may, I wish to be critical of this process, because I think it can be Beneficial to consider the outcome. The goal was to attempt a trunk airlayer, simply to achieve an additional tree if I am understanding correctly. This layer was not performed because of a desirable section that provided some defintite artistic merit worth spending an entire season and year's time in investment.

It now appears not to have gone as planned. Yet, the consideration now is how to spend yet another year to perform the same thing?

I have often seen it written in internet forums, and know that among lesser experienced bonsai practioners, that airlayering is seen as a way of increasing one's stock. While this is certainly true, I would suggest it should never be the primary or the only consideration to perform this kind of operation. It simply requires to much of an investment in time. The principle reason to perform this kind of an operation is to produce a desirable outcome that will lead to a dramatic reduction in time to produce a bonsai from the material.

To apply this thought process to the material at hand, the trunk layer should be considered if the material to be layered off has potential to be bonsai. For example dramatic taper or movement. In which case one would cut off the upper portion of the trunk above where the desired height would be, and focus on layering that portion of material which is to be the bonsai. In this case one does not need to worry how to store the excess height of the trunk that is not to be utilized in this project.

I offer this for public consideration with respect to the author of this thread, because I feel it is important to consider the aspects of what is to be achieved.
This response is in no way intended to be derogatory of the author or his intentions.
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Last edited by Ralph : 15-Sep-2006 at 03:55 PM.
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Old 15-Sep-2006   #10
Wolfus
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Ralph,

I do not take your comments as critical, I understand your point. My intent was two fold. I wanted to train the branch directly beneath the layer as the new leader from the base which I feel is decent. I could not see throwing away all of the top of this tree without trying to salvage it. It wouldn’t be like throwing away a few branches from pruning. A 7 foot section of trunk in my eyes is quite a waste. I realize now I should have done a much shorter layer this year but that doesn’t help me for this winter.
I've put a line where the layer is. You can see the branch directly beneath it I was speaking of.
I’ve considered allowing the tree to start into dormancy then removing the layer. Defoliating what may remain of the leaves and mulch the base heavily for the winter.

Any thoughts there?



Thanks,

David
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File Type: jpg Ulmus 2006 layer location.JPG (66.5 KB, 48 views)
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