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#1 |
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bonsaiTALK Expert
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I must admit that I was pretty sceptical about the whole notion of doing "trunk chops" and the ability of broadleaf trees to backbud and recover from it, but considering some photos I saw of the process I decided I should give it a try. So, since I had a scraggly-looking Chinese Honeysuckle about 9' high with a trunk caliper of a tad over 2" that my wife wanted to get rid of, I decided it would be an excellent victim, er, test subject. I cut the trunk down to 26" in March (it was still snowing now and then around here, though we had had a few 60-degree F days) and hoped for the best.
Well, I must say that I'm now totally convinced of this "magical" ability of trees to bud out of old wood. New sprouts started busting their way through the trunk's craggy bark in mid-April and have been going gangbusters ever since. I'm pretty sure there are more leaves on the tree now than there ever were last year when it was 9' tall. In fact, now that the foliage has a spread of 5' in diameter and I'm wondering what to do next! Conveniently, I've go two good-sized shoots starting to harden near the top of the trunk. I've heard about cutting the top of the trunk-chop into a "V" just above these kind of branches so it will (supposedly) heal into a natural-looking crotch over time. Currently, the shoots grow out about 2'-6" without any sort of ramification. I'm guessing that I want to let the bottom branches grow out almost unchecked while trimming back the top branches pretty hard to keep them slender. My major concern here is timing; is it too soon/late in the year for this kind of pruning? Overall, though I've read about trunk-chops, I've never really seen a step-by-step "how to" guide. I'd like to keep using this Honeysuckle to train on so that I know proper techniques for when my Linden Tree and Crab Apple are ready for a trunk chop in a few years. =)
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#2 |
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bonsaiTALK Master
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You got one of the reasons for doing a trunk chop--to reduce the height of a too-tall tree. We also do them to improve the taper of the tree. You say it's 2" @ the base; does it stay 2" all the way up to 26"? Where does the diameter of the trunk begin to decrease? And is there any significant movement to take into consideration? I ask because when a tree is chopped, once is not enough. You want to look for a place where a shoot has emerged along that 26" and cut back to make that shoot become the new leader. I would not do the "v" notch @ the top of a tree. I think you're confusing that technique with another that is to make a broom style tree and that's another subject. When you make your second chop, make the cut in back of the shoot selected as new leader and cut parallel to the angle of the new leader, leaving a little bit of trunk above the new leader. Seal the cut with the putty-type cut paste. It should heal very quickly since this is now the top of the tree. I would select a thin shoot in a position where the taper starts to level out when selecting a new leader.
Your best bet is to go through a few books that have illustrations about doing trunk chops and the earlier issues of Bonsai Today should have some good references about how to do it. Kyosuke Gun's articles on shohin in Bonsai Today feature several how-to illustrated articles about trunk chops for shohin. It applies for regular size bonsai as well. |
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