Should I plant it?

ripsgreentree

On drainage I am again on the extream end. I have several trees in growing boxes with screen bottoms so I would say 100% drainage. These boxes are only 3 in. deep and have saju elms, trident maple and liquid amber, again I will soon post pictures, as soon as I can. It is going to be very interesting to see how these trees fair in over 100 degree tempratures.
ripsgreentree

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ripsgreentree

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bonsaial1

With 2% drainage it's no wonder that beginners drown thier trees! Hey I've been watering it everyday but the leaves just keep turning yellow..Hello, cut back on the water dude!

Oh well, the only safe way to check the rootball for moisture is to turn the pot over rap it hard with the palm of your hand, let the rootball fall on the table. Pick up the rootball and slam it hard on the table to knock all the soil off the root mass. Weigh the soil against the same amount of soil that is dry. If the soil from the pot weighs more than the dry soil, it must be retaining moisture. Put tree back into pot and replace with the heavier soil. Repeat procedure tomarrow to see if plant needs water.
( this has been written for entertainment value only, do not use this procedure to check your plant for water)
I figured I better put the disclaimer, someone might think I'm serious.

Happy watering, Bonsaial

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ripsgreentree

Shambhala: The growing box sounds fine I will offer one last bit of advice. When you do this bit of work on this tree and when you are finished potting into your growing box. Take the time to defoliate the tree, yes remove every leaf preferably by cutting the stem. This will give you a short hybernation of about one week and then new buds will start to move. Peotect the new foliage as it will be tender into the heat of summer. I have used this technique with decidious trees that had to be repotted in the heat with success. Wishing you the best of luck with your tree............ripsgreentree

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ripsgreentree

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Shambhala

Defoliate the tree

How would this benefit the tree?

Tony

I dissagreee with rip on this one [can I say that around here]. I wouldn't do a total defoliation unless you really plan to prune the roots hard, like 50% or more. Cutting a few leaves here and there to balance it out with the root system is a good idea. This will cut down on moisture loss through the leaves until the roots can recover. IMO if you're unsure about the health of the inner roots you are better off leaving foliage on the branches, this assures that the sap will continue to flow. Remember to keep it in the shade too for a week or two.

Tony

ripsgreentree

I have found from experience that when a deciduous tree is disturbed in the heat of summer and you want it to survive, its best chance is defoliation. Remember that the new buds are pushed out by the energy that is stored in the trunk and not by the roots. Mature foliage is supported by the roots, which we'd be shocking by repotting at the wrong time of year.

If you do a total defoliation it signals the tree to kick out new foliage with trunk energy just like spring, this new foliage then sets new feeder roots to growing, which is what you want for a newly potted tree. The trick is aftercare: protect the new foliage until it matures.

About two years ago we were discussing this technique with a local club. To prove our point we gave each club member two trees. It was well past potting season, and into the high 90s. Each member was required to unpot, root prune, and repot their new maples in fresh soil. At the meeting the poll was unanimous: the club members all felt that their trees were going to die.

When I meet one or another of the members today, several years later, they always say, "You remember that maple? Its still alive!" Of the 30 trees that went home with the members that night, only 3 died and I will bet that was from bad aftercare.

Now with all of this being said, only use on your trees the techniques that you have "proven" are correct for your environment and material...........ripsgreentree

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Tony

Rip, I do that type of thing too occasionally, repotting out of season, trunk chopping, hard pruning, etc. But I always do it on healthy trees with healthy root systems. It's hard to know for sure but this one sounds like it's been neglected for a while. I would much rather do some minor root and top pruning now and save the heavy work for next spring. It would depend on the health of the tree. If you cut all the leaves off, it may or may not bud out again.

Tony