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#1 |
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bonsaiTALK Journeyman
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When is the best time to do some light pruning? I need to prune a few branches, and have heard conflicting arguments regarding the seasonal timing. One side says to prune just prior to winter before the branches harden, others say that would shock the tree just before the cold season (bad) and should wait until the spring growth period. I feel like time is of the essence, and would like to prune a few branches now if it's the right time to do so, but obviously not if it isn't. Make sense? Again, nothing too drastic, but I'd like to clear some branches away from the trunks, and cut back a few of the over-zealous branches. Any thoghts to clear my confusion? Thanks!
-John ![]() |
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#2 |
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Old Mister Crow
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Hi John,
We've discussed this topic several times on here, and while people have different opinions, I think the consensus could very briefly be summarized as follows: Trim early in spring, before bud break but not so early that the trimmed areas dry out before sap starts flowing. -Old Mister
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In love with trees |
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#3 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Chief
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Pruning
First question. What specie of tree are we talking about? Some trees (Fruit) are just now being pruined (Maples) will get a winter pruning as soon as the leaves drop. I may not be the person to listen to because I am dealing with so many trees (thousands) that I never seem to be able to get things done at the dot on perfect time of year. Here is todays example, I have aquired 100 lbs of bald cypress seedlings cut top and bottom. This is approximatly 1,000 trees, in my opinion this is the absolutly worst time of year to cut these trees or to transplant them either but I got them in one big plastic bag and rather than guarintee that they all die by throwing them out I have bedded them all down for the winter with hopes that some will servive. The point is that living material is not written in stone so the question prune or not prune depends on the specie of tree and where in the world you live.
Glenn
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ripsgreentree It requires an open hand to give and to recieve. |
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#4 |
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bonsaiTALK Journeyman
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Old Mister and Glenn-
Thanks for the reponses. Bonsai are tempermental creatures, you can see why I don't want to startle them. I have several trees: Monterey Cypress (potted), Cotoneaster (potted), Garden Juniper (potted), 2 Shimpakus (in gallon containers), Hokkaido elm (gallon container), Ambiguous Elm (gallon container), and a Maple sapling-looking thing in a quart-sized container. I want to prune the shimpakus, juniper, and the cypress. I may just wait until the spring since I just placed the container-ed plants into their homes two weeks ago (without disturbing the roots). Give them time to settle down so to speak. What are some of teh rules of thumb for these species? -John |
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#5 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
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I usually do any hard pruning in the late winter- early spring time frame for the reasons OMC stated. Of course, you guys in zone 9 can get away with alot of things I can't, so pruning at this time may be an option. ask yourself this question: what will be gained by doing it now opposed to waiting. I can't really think of anything that would be gained by doing it now since even in your climate the trees will go dormant or at least slow their growth considerably. On the down side you will have pruning scars on the trees that may cause die back or provide a spot for fungus to start, due to the lack of growth through the winter.
The light pruning you want to do may be ok but generally you don't want to do anything that will cause new growth at this time of year since it will get nipped by the first hard freeze and die back anyway. I think your best bet would be to search out some local growers and ask them what they do at this time of year. Tony |
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#6 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Chief
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Pruning
John it sounds to me like you are just getting started and thats ok!
I am not famillier with the Monterey cypress and so do not have any advice. In the San Francisco aeria the juniper and shimpaku will not stop growing in the winter. I will often shape juniper and shimpaku juniper in the winter to get a jump on early spring and late summer growth. Hokkaido elm gets as brittle as glass with age (older wood will break easly) and I much prefer growing Seaju elm. Do your heavy pruning on the elms in the spring as the buds begain to swell. This is the time to root prune and take cuttings (root and limb)also repotting. Rules of thumb! Limbs take years to grow and a fraction of a second to cut off so think twice and cut once. Start a bonsai liberary, some suggested purchases. John Nakas bonsai techniques 1 & 2. An easy choice for starting, the Sunset bonsai book. You can find it in the how to book section at your hardware store. There are exelent clubs in your aeria, join one! I hope that I have not come off sounding rude but all of these things will come up. This is a great art form and it realy is about knowlege and technique. The faster you absorb information the better you will become at creating and keeping plants as bonsai. Glenn Van Winkle
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ripsgreentree It requires an open hand to give and to recieve. |
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#7 |
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bonsaiTALK Journeyman
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Thanks to all of you who responded, you're awesome! I am just getting started with bonsai, and have found myself taking it very seriously. I want to do what's best for the bonsai everytime (have had my heart broken twice so far with killing trees). I'm not in a rush to prune by any means, as I'm finally getting a hold of this whole "patience" thing, but want to do everything just right in tune with the seasons. I suppose I'll wait and play it safe with most of my trees until early spring (thanks OMC, Glenn, Tony), with the possible exception of the juniper and shimpaku's. Again, thanks for your help, I gotta get those pictures up for more feedback!
-John |
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