mugo pine nebari development

windblownhermit

Hi everyone.

This is my first season exploring bonsai and I'm getting started with some trees I got from nurseries. Among them is a mugo pine with a nice upright leader and many branches to choose, but unfortunately not the root base I was hoping for. Basically it looks like an upside down "Y" planted into the ground, with the main roots going downward opposite of each other with no real radial structure appearing at the base. Now I know it's said better to have good nebari in the beginning than any other desirables, but here I am nonetheless.

So I want to know of any and all good ways of developing nebari, especially in mugo pine. I have read of some techniques that involve layering but I have also read that pines do not take layering well, or at least very slowly, like sometimes five years or more for good roots to develop.

What would be the most effective way to accomplish better nebari in this case, and will it take a longer time because it is a pine? This little guy is pretty much fresh from the nursery and the only thing done to it is its been given a larger pot to grow in due to slightly rootbound condition in the nursery pot, so the future is pretty much open to any regimen though as a beginner I'd like to see results sooner than later if there are any shortcuts.

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Container grown plants can develop interesting root systems!

Not all of the issues listed below should be considered problems, but they recognized characteristics of many plants grown in the nursery trade for general landscape use, not those grown with the intention of being future bonsai.

One characteristic is exposed roots caused by erosion/compaction of the surface soil. It sounds like this may be what you've experienced. It often occurs in conjunction with some of the other problems listed below, so you may be able to use the exposed rooting as a feature, or remove part of it infavor of a deeper root system. What happens here is that the soil in the container breaks down over time unless it is replenished. The result is that the soil level sinks and roots become exposed.

Another character is the multiple layer root system. The tree has the appearance of surface rooting, but slightly lower down in the pot or growing can, a second root system is found. The grower at the first repotting stage for a container grown plant should approach the tree with the understanding that there is a possibility that it might have a second layer of roots hidden in the soil. In some cases this is a better option than the visible root!

A third problem is circling roots. This is very common. Roots dive down into the growing can or pot, hit the bottom and circle the container looking for an escape root or:

Roots escape through the container's drainage holes adn develop largely in the ground, anchoring the training can to the ground. This "problem" is occasionally used as a growing technique by some bonsai enthusiasts. One should be aware that the mass of roots that remain in the can are not sufficient to nurture the entire tree if the escaping roots are cut. When the tree is harvested, a significant portion of the foliage needs also to be removed.

Last, but most common is the box-shaped root system Many trees and shrubs used in the landscape trade are developed from cuttings or seeds grown in small plastic containers or tubes called "Nursery Liners." Trees are usually potted up from the liner to a larger container without taking the time consuming step of spreading out the root system. Even less frequently is the strong tap root cut. Remember these trees are going in the ground as foundation plantings, and the tap root does serve a purpose in increasing the depth of the root system and improving its anchorage and drought tolerance. Unfortunately as bonsai, these trees retain the 2" or 4" box-shaped character from being constrained to the liner. The roots may be wrapped in a knot, or they may grow up and then down again trying to spread horizontally.

The moral to this post is that it's the hidden part of the tree that can give you the most problems down the road. One way to deal with this issue is to buy plants from a supplier who knows something about bonsai and the steps required to propagate trees that have excellent, radial root systems. Another is to propagate them yourself, and a third is to keep in mind when visiting the nursery center to select only those plants that have good prospects in the root department.

Check out the surface root development carefully and keep in mind the issues listed above. Many problems can be overcome in the initial repotting, but starting with material that is as close to ideal as possible will get you farther down the road.

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