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Japanese Maple Question

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Old 30-Jan-2006   #1
Shifty
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Japanese Maple Question

Hi all -

Was at a nursery today (not a bonsai nursery) and saw some bonsai for sale. There was a great looking japanese maple that looked like it was quite a few years old, had a nice trunk, nice folaige etc etc that I might purchase.

The trunk was green - is this normal for a Japanese maple? Most of the JM's ive seen have a grey coloured trunk. Does the trunk change colour with age? Hope i dont look foolish by asking

Thanks

Shift
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Old 30-Jan-2006   #2
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Shifty,

That's quite normal. Many varieties have green trunks at least when they're young.

Brian
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Old 30-Jan-2006   #3
Shifty
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Thanks Brian
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Old 30-Jan-2006   #4
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Shifty:

You may double-check on the price of that thing before you buy.

I've seen a lot of "bonsai" for sale at garden centres, and most often you can get more bonsai for the buck from a bonsai specialist.

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Old 30-Jan-2006   #5
Shifty
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Yep pootsie - i agree. But the maple at the garden centre is about $200 cheaper than at the bonsai place and there really isnt much difference in the quality (that i can see with my untrained eyes anyway...LOL)
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Old 30-Jan-2006   #6
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How about a grafting scar? Did the landscape maple show a graft union on the trunk? This is the most common difference you will see. Maples grown for bonsai most often will not have been grafted. On some less hardier varieties, they may have been grafted, but it will be very low right upon the roots.

Maples grown for the landscape on the other hand will have a graft scar clearly upon the trunk.
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Old 30-Jan-2006   #7
Shifty
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Ralph - yer I looked for a graft but didnt see any evidence of one whatsoever. I was very pleased with myself that i looked at this bonsai with a critical eye. Im slowly learning thanks to everyone on these forums.
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Old 30-Jan-2006   #8
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Hi Shifty,


One thing you can do with Japanese maple is deliberately scar them. By "damaging" the green bark, it heals over with a wooded bark, as opposed to the coloured softwood, thereby artificially aging limbs or portions of trunk.

I know John Dixon uses this technique, although I learnt this accidently while having a nightmare wiring the top of a deshojo. I managed to bruise the limb quite badly, and I was really annoyed that I had done it. Within a couple of months, the damage had healed over and with it came a hardwood finish to the bark. See, every cloud has a silver lining - well some do anyway lol.

All the best,

Aaron

PS, If you are going to use this technique, practise on a branch thats going to be removed or on unworthy stock first.
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Old 31-Jan-2006   #9
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Cheers AK - how would you suggest "damaging" the trunk without really hurting it?


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Old 31-Jan-2006   #10
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Hi Shifty,

That's a good question. One to which I should imagine there are dozens of replies for, as people who use the technique will probably have a variation on how they perform it. I used a heavy gauge wire that shifted as I was trying to secure it and the bark on the softwood was torn away. I suppose you could use anything that ever so slightly crushes the bark or bruises it. Ideally you aren't looking to cut it, but if you can imagine a peach that you press your thumb into. Obviously, what I did above was an accident, as I didn't intentionally mean to sever the bark and wouldn't recommend doing it this way.

I also achieved the same by leaving wire (again quite a thick gauge) on the branch and allowing it to bite in slightly. The injured limb will then repair itself, creating scar tissue which is the woody bark. This is probably the safest way to do it, just don't let the wire bit too deep, otherwise you will end up with deep scars or a depressions in the limb, which can take ages to correct. Using as heavy gauge wire as you can, makes the biting in less noticeable and "damages" a wider area.

Try experimenting with wire by wrapping as if to set a limb into position, but wrap tighter than you normally would. Then leave the wire on the branch for maybe 3-4 weeks during the growing season. Pay close attention to the areas wrapped. Remember you only want to leave the wire on long enough to bruise the bark - you don't want the limb swelling too much around the wire, as you can end up with deep depressions. This is possibly best done in late summer, as the tree will soon begin to harden off new growth anyway.

All the best,

Aaron
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