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#1 |
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bonsaiTALK Craftsman
Join Date: Apr-2004
Location: Tommerup
Country: Denmark
Posts: 82
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Help is there someone that hase plans or drawings for a formal koipond, I have to dig a new one in a month or so.
Every idea and plans and so on are very welcom. Kind regards Peter Ps. Is someone using a roof of some kind over there ponds? Sorry my english is not that good.
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#2 |
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bonsaiTALK Master
Join Date: Oct-2003
Location: southern ontario (windsor)
Country: canada
USDA Zone: 6a / 6b
AHS Heat Zone: 5?
Posts: 315
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Hi there Lanerloos. I'm sorry i don't have any plans or drawings for you but there's some good information here -- www.awgs.org .
Roof over ponds Sometimes netting is used to keep out intruders (raccoons, herons and other predators). Sometimes people build little shelters (rock outcroppings) in the pond to give fish etc.. a place to hide should the predators come for a snack. And sometimes people incorporate their deck/patio into the pond layout so the water seems to disappear under the deck (this gives some protection for the above issues too).Hope this helps a bit. Best of luck. bill ![]() |
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#3 |
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bonsaiTALK Craftsman
Join Date: Apr-2004
Location: Tommerup
Country: Denmark
Posts: 82
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NO one
![]() Thanks Bill this helps. regards Peter
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#4 |
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Tips:5¢ Advice:Free
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Have you ever noticed that everything shrinks when you put it outside? Like ten feet might sound largish, but outdoors it is hardly any distance at all.
Maybe this explains why the koi people are continually upgrading their ponds? Regards, Matt
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#5 |
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bonsaiTALK Artisan
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Treebay,
No, ten feet still looks pretty big to me lol ... I recently finished digging a hole in my back yard for an 11' X 11' X 2'-10" pond in my back yard. don't have any plans on making it any bigger EVER, i'm tired of shovels ;oP I still have a long way to go but have come to a hault because i'm young and dumb and didn't realize how much stone (and money to get the stone) i would need to finish what's left. Landerloos, May you have better fortunes than i. Ian
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#6 |
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Tips:5¢ Advice:Free
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Well, if you can dig a bit deeper, you'll be happier in the long run. It helps to stabilize the temperature and keeping your stocked pond from turning into a racoon and heron fishing grounds!
Regards, Matt
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#7 |
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bonsaiTALK Master
Join Date: Oct-2003
Location: southern ontario (windsor)
Country: canada
USDA Zone: 6a / 6b
AHS Heat Zone: 5?
Posts: 315
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my rule of thumb.....go bigger than you think you want.
Matt's right---dig deeper and wider then you initially believe you need/want. make sure you buy a big enough liner. don't skimp on pond size, cause you'll regret it like so many of us have. all the best bill |
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#8 |
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bonsaiTALK Craftsman
Join Date: Apr-2004
Location: Tommerup
Country: Denmark
Posts: 82
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Thanx guys,
it will be 4 meters long and aprox. 3 to 3,50 meter wide and 1,30m deep, I know a lott of digging you say Maybe just maybe I could get some help of a crane or bobcat Kind regards Peter
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#9 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
Join Date: Apr-2004
Location: Nr Halifax
Country: England
USDA Zone: 8
AHS Heat Zone: 2-3?
Posts: 857
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also, buy the best liner you can afford as this is the integral part of your pond. leave a good few inches for padding below the liner, builders sand and newspaper if possible should be used to protect the liner from punctures.
cheers Rowan
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In literary and art criticism there are two criteria, the political and the artistic.... Words and actions should help to unite, and not divide, the people of our various nationalities I often talk to myself because i am the only one who truly understands me. |
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#10 |
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Tips:5¢ Advice:Free
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Adding a bottom drain would be a very good idea, too. The pond is a big settling chamber, and you can take the mulm and stuff right off the bottom, as well as facilitate draining it!
Slope the floor slightly toward the drain. Some people have more than one drain! Found a link to a bottom drain that will work with liners: http://www.123ponds.com/plumbing-su...tom-drains.html
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