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John's advice on the apex of the tree is right on. I would suggest the same approach.

As for repotting, think of things this way--every repot and root pruning removes resources the tree needs to grow and reduces the rate at which it does so. While that may be fine if you're only trying grow out tertiary twigs on the final frame of a tree, it's not great if you're trying to get massive growth to heal big scars, push a leader, etc. on a new trunk chopped tree.

Roots are the engine that drives the vehicle. Remove three or four of the cylinders and the truck doesn't pull as hard.

In other words, if you're growing out the top, keep repotting to a minimum--once every three or four years or until the soil is so clogged that water stands on top after watering--whichever comes first.

22-Feb-2005	#26
rockm bonsaiTALK ArchMaster Join Date: Oct-2003 Location: Fairfax, Va Country: USA USDA Zone: 7 AHS Heat Zone: ? Posts: 4,561	John's advice on the apex of the tree is right on. I would suggest the same approach. As for repotting, think of things this way--every repot and root pruning removes resources the tree needs to grow and reduces the rate at which it does so. While that may be fine if you're only trying grow out tertiary twigs on the final frame of a tree, it's not great if you're trying to get massive growth to heal big scars, push a leader, etc. on a new trunk chopped tree. Roots are the engine that drives the vehicle. Remove three or four of the cylinders and the truck doesn't pull as hard. In other words, if you're growing out the top, keep repotting to a minimum--once every three or four years or until the soil is so clogged that water stands on top after watering--whichever comes first.