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<CONTINUED FROM ABOVE>

G) START THE TRANSPLANT

1)Prepare the container for transplant. fill the container about 1/3 full of soil arranged in a small volcano-shaped mound. Position the tree over the mound and with your hands distributed across the roots, work it down into the soil with a twisting motion.

2) Ensure that you have the trunk positioned where it belongs and that the fronts of the pot and tree are facing in the correct direction. This is mainly an aesthetic issue to be discussed elsewhere; however, the trunk is usually arranged not dead-center in the pot but a bit toward the rear and favoring the left side or the right, depending on the line of the trunk and the placement of the first branch. This position is intended to increase the apparent depth of the container and also balance the visual mass, and is a matter of personal taste. The position of major roots or deadwood may make the position of the tree less flexible.

2) Add soil to the pot using the soil scoops. Take care to distribute the roots evenly around the pot. Using chopsticks, work the soil into and around the roots. You can strike the container with your balled fist or lightly with a rubber mallet to help to settle the soil.

3) Tie the tree in place using the tie wires and pliers.

4) Continue this operation of adding soil and working it in until you're sure that all of the air spaces have been filled. Shaking the container from side to side may help to settle it more.

5) A slightly finer mix may be used in the top 1/2 inch or so of the pot. Work this in with chopsticks as well.

H) WATERING IN

Using the hose with a fine rose mounted, thoroughly irrigate the tree and allow the water to flow through the drainage holes until it runs clear. This may take 5 to 10 minutes or so, depending on the container volume.

You may cover the surface of the pot with a light layer of chopped long-fiber sphagnum moss to help retain humidity. The moss should not cover more than about 1/3 of the soil surface. The tree should be returned to its growing area. It's particularly important that the pot be allowed to have sun to let it warm to encourage the roots to grow and recover. Mist the tree, but do not water again until the soil has begun to dry somewhat.

I) When the tree has recovered and is actively growing you may decide to add top dressing or moss. Moss spores may be added in a light dusting over the top layer. Follow the instructions on the package. Within a month or so moss will have begun to develop. Alternatively, moss may be harvested from another tree, but moss that grows in place usually is more pleasing. Do not allow the moss to cover more than 1/4 of the surface of the pot, and be sure that it is not allowed to grow up the tree and onto the bark. Avoid long-fibered moss and all kinds of hornwort. These tend to clog the soil surface and impede drainage.

SUMMARY:
In general, the wide, shallow containers favored for bonsai, combined with their limited drainage facility and the confined space of the pot are all negative factors from the standpoint of the health of your trees. In order to help them best adjust to container culture, it's important that the soil be periodically replenished and the root system pruned to maintain the tree's health and vigor.

<END>

27-Aug-2001	#5
TreeBay Tips:5¢ Advice:Free *MODERATOR GROUP* Join Date: Aug-2001 Location: Silicon Valley Country: USA USDA Zone: 9 AHS Heat Zone: 4 Posts: 9,738	Transplanting <CONTINUED FROM ABOVE> G) START THE TRANSPLANT 1)Prepare the container for transplant. fill the container about 1/3 full of soil arranged in a small volcano-shaped mound. Position the tree over the mound and with your hands distributed across the roots, work it down into the soil with a twisting motion. 2) Ensure that you have the trunk positioned where it belongs and that the fronts of the pot and tree are facing in the correct direction. This is mainly an aesthetic issue to be discussed elsewhere; however, the trunk is usually arranged not dead-center in the pot but a bit toward the rear and favoring the left side or the right, depending on the line of the trunk and the placement of the first branch. This position is intended to increase the apparent depth of the container and also balance the visual mass, and is a matter of personal taste. The position of major roots or deadwood may make the position of the tree less flexible. 2) Add soil to the pot using the soil scoops. Take care to distribute the roots evenly around the pot. Using chopsticks, work the soil into and around the roots. You can strike the container with your balled fist or lightly with a rubber mallet to help to settle the soil. 3) Tie the tree in place using the tie wires and pliers. 4) Continue this operation of adding soil and working it in until you're sure that all of the air spaces have been filled. Shaking the container from side to side may help to settle it more. 5) A slightly finer mix may be used in the top 1/2 inch or so of the pot. Work this in with chopsticks as well. H) WATERING IN Using the hose with a fine rose mounted, thoroughly irrigate the tree and allow the water to flow through the drainage holes until it runs clear. This may take 5 to 10 minutes or so, depending on the container volume. You may cover the surface of the pot with a light layer of chopped long-fiber sphagnum moss to help retain humidity. The moss should not cover more than about 1/3 of the soil surface. The tree should be returned to its growing area. It's particularly important that the pot be allowed to have sun to let it warm to encourage the roots to grow and recover. Mist the tree, but do not water again until the soil has begun to dry somewhat. I) When the tree has recovered and is actively growing you may decide to add top dressing or moss. Moss spores may be added in a light dusting over the top layer. Follow the instructions on the package. Within a month or so moss will have begun to develop. Alternatively, moss may be harvested from another tree, but moss that grows in place usually is more pleasing. Do not allow the moss to cover more than 1/4 of the surface of the pot, and be sure that it is not allowed to grow up the tree and onto the bark. Avoid long-fibered moss and all kinds of hornwort. These tend to clog the soil surface and impede drainage. SUMMARY: In general, the wide, shallow containers favored for bonsai, combined with their limited drainage facility and the confined space of the pot are all negative factors from the standpoint of the health of your trees. In order to help them best adjust to container culture, it's important that the soil be periodically replenished and the root system pruned to maintain the tree's health and vigor. <END> __________________ Want to be a seller on bonsaiAUCTIONS? Get authorized today! bonsaiTALK: Over 100,005.36 Megabytes Served this Month!