bonsaiTALK Community - View Single Post - Back budding in Scots Pine

Hi GraemeK,

Young pines tend to look a little odd, but they have the capacity to bud back profusely. New branches usually develop from latent buds hidden between the needles pairs, or sets.

One way to encourage back budding on pines is to pinch the candle tips as they grow out. Also, In general, you can reduce the number of shoots or branches to just two at any point, at any time, and this will help quite a bit. Thin the apex more aggressively because this point dominates the tree.

With Japanese Black pine, the candle may be removed entirely and new shoots will form at its base, and hopefully farther back along its branches. Black pine are exceptionally strong and this can even be done after the needles have started to develop in the sheaths of the candles. This work is done in early summer. In fall, the needle count is reduced, particularly at the apex of the tree, which allows more sunlight in. Branches are wired with the tips flat at this time - the black pine is again vigorous enough to drive candles straight upward, and the flat tips help induce back budding.

With Japanese White Pine, the candles are usually pinched in half rather than being removed entirely, and this is done earlier, before the needles begin to extend, while the candles are still green and fleshy. Needle thinning is also done. Branch tips are wired up because the tree is weaker.

My suggestion for your scots pine is to treat it gently until you are familiar with its growing pattern. Pines have a tendency to throw more branches off where you already have branch unions, and needles are a source of latent buds.

Begin by reducing your branching to two branches, (not three or more) at any union. Near the apex of the tree, choose the weaker branches to remain. At the interior of the tree and near its base, choose the stronger branches to remain. This will help to regulate the pine's tendency to grow up up up.

Next, to discourage the pine from sending out more buds where you already have them, strip away most of the needles that have formed around branch unions and the areas where branches already come off the trunk. I would take them all off within a 1" radius of a branch node for example. Leave some needles on the trunk and older branches where you want to encourage buds to develop.

Wait to practice any kind of candle pruning until late spring to early summer - Typically may-june-july (depending on your hemisphere and how soon the growing season kicks off where you live.)

1-Nov-2001	#2
Dr.Bonsai Resident Expert Join Date: Aug-2001 Country: USA Posts: 38	Back budding in Scots Pine Hi GraemeK, Young pines tend to look a little odd, but they have the capacity to bud back profusely. New branches usually develop from latent buds hidden between the needles pairs, or sets. One way to encourage back budding on pines is to pinch the candle tips as they grow out. Also, In general, you can reduce the number of shoots or branches to just two at any point, at any time, and this will help quite a bit. Thin the apex more aggressively because this point dominates the tree. With Japanese Black pine, the candle may be removed entirely and new shoots will form at its base, and hopefully farther back along its branches. Black pine are exceptionally strong and this can even be done after the needles have started to develop in the sheaths of the candles. This work is done in early summer. In fall, the needle count is reduced, particularly at the apex of the tree, which allows more sunlight in. Branches are wired with the tips flat at this time - the black pine is again vigorous enough to drive candles straight upward, and the flat tips help induce back budding. With Japanese White Pine, the candles are usually pinched in half rather than being removed entirely, and this is done earlier, before the needles begin to extend, while the candles are still green and fleshy. Needle thinning is also done. Branch tips are wired up because the tree is weaker. My suggestion for your scots pine is to treat it gently until you are familiar with its growing pattern. Pines have a tendency to throw more branches off where you already have branch unions, and needles are a source of latent buds. Begin by reducing your branching to two branches, (not three or more) at any union. Near the apex of the tree, choose the weaker branches to remain. At the interior of the tree and near its base, choose the stronger branches to remain. This will help to regulate the pine's tendency to grow up up up. Next, to discourage the pine from sending out more buds where you already have them, strip away most of the needles that have formed around branch unions and the areas where branches already come off the trunk. I would take them all off within a 1" radius of a branch node for example. Leave some needles on the trunk and older branches where you want to encourage buds to develop. Wait to practice any kind of candle pruning until late spring to early summer - Typically may-june-july (depending on your hemisphere and how soon the growing season kicks off where you live.)