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Old 31-Oct-2004   #5
acadia
bonsaiTALK Neophyte
 
Join Date: Oct-2004
Location: Jamaica Plain, MA
Country: USA
Posts: 4
You need to supply more parameters to get specific advice:
1. In order to survive indoors, most- but not all- trees need some time outside in a reasonably high-growth (relatively high growth) position. Has this critter been indoors since you bought it?

Yes, it's been indoors, in front of several open windows for most of the summer. I don't have any space outdoors with adeuqate light.

2. To all things- a season... autumn is not a time for growth. You would expect to see a change in the growth/life of any plant at this time of year. For instance, bring a Christmas cactus in now and watch it blossom, or bring a critter in from full sun and watch it drop its leaves (this can be ameliorated). You say your Box has been in a few locations. Where, and when, and how long, and of course why the changes?

Honestly, I didn't keep a record of how long it was in any one place. It has been mostly in front of a window, about four feet away from the supplemental 150 watt, self ballasted Wonder Lite. I have also had it in my darker bedroom, under a regular 65 watt, GE grow light (maybe a foot and a half away from that). I moved it from this last situation when it started to ail because I thought it might have been too close to the light, even though it didn't seem too hot to me.

3. In houseplants, browning at the edges of leaves are typically a sign of over-watering. Often, the brown edges of the leaves will have a droplet of water almost contantly present. In concert with your answers to the above 1 & 2, are your watering habits different from your “summer” habits? All other things being equal, with lower transpiration rates should come lower watering rates. Is your plant receiving less sunlight than in summer? Are you watering on a schedule rather than responding to watering when the soil is dry to the touch?

I always water only when the soil is dry to the touch. I was, however, away for two separate one week periods this summer, and my roommate took care of my plants. I did give her a watering schedule for each plant, based on its location and the size of the pot, and how often I usually have to water it. I did tell her to ignore the schedile if the plant was obviously still moist.

I can’t speak for others, but I view incandescent lights as better for dehydrating jerky than illuminating plants. Put your hand, or better- the back of your forearm the same distance from the light as the plant is. If your skin is uncomfortable, stop, forthwith. Buy a cheap shop light and do the same thing.

Unfortunately, aforementioned roommate has enough issues with the Wonderlite. I have to compromise. She would hate having a big florescent light in the apartment. And all my other plants have been doing great with the Wonderlite and the 65 watt bulbs (with the exception of a corkbark chinese elm, which is a whole other story and had problems even when I was able to grow it outside in good light).

I don’t understand how you can water from the bottom and see deposits on the top of the soil. That tells me you have a high salt content in your water. Is this possible? Something doesn’t ring true here. Are you using untreated well water? Are you in the Great Plains (US or Canada)?

No, I live in Boston, MA. I water with filtered water, or dechlorinated tap water. Do you have a better recommendation for a water treatment, something that would get rid of more of the salts? There does seem to be an excessive amount of them.

Thanks for the help!

Laura
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