bonsaiTALK Community - View Single Post - Air Layering Instructions (1/3)

Air Layering Instructions 2/3, Cont'd from prior message:

MARK THE SITE OF THE LAYER
Using a piece of chalk, mark a line around the circumference of the branch. _This will define the new "soil line" from which roots will emerge. _Roots sometimes emerge slightly higher than this point, so take this into consideration.

Mark a second line below the first, completely around the trunk. _This line should be positioned at a distance approximately equal to the width of the branch being layered. _ This line defines the lower portion of the layer. _The bark between the two lines will be removed as follows:

Using a sharp knife (Our folding grafting JR-0190 is ideal) scribe a 1/8" deep cut around the upper chalkline. _The idea is to completely penetrate the bark down to bare wood. _This is usually around 1/8" deep, but on thick- or rough barked trees like elm or pine it can be substantially deeper.
Cut a second line around the lower chalkline.
Using the knife, peel away the bark between the two chalklines. _Remove it all the way down to the bare wood, which will be evident by its whitish color. Remove anything greenish between the cuts

PREPARE THE SITE

Make sure that the wound near the upper chalkline is cut cleanly. _It may be necessary to clean up the cut with the grafting knife. _This is particularly important, because this is the point at which the roots should be developing.
You may twist a thick piece of bonsai wire tightly around the circumference of the upper chalkline, just beneath the newly cut edge. _This helps to ensure that the tree generates roots rather than simply healing over the wound. _It also helps ensure a balalanced root system by helping to define the edge at which the roots will develop.
Swab the area with a liquid rooting hormone or paint on a slurry of powdered rooting hormone.
Drench a handful of moss in water. This should be the long, threaded Canadian variety of moss used in planter baskets, not the chopped fine sphagnum.
Pack the region with sphagnum moss and tie it in place with twine or bonsai wire applied lightly.
Add more moss to the region. _You want enough moss to enable a rootball large enough to sustain the layered branch. _This requires some judgement, but it would be approximately the size of an appropriate bonsai pot for a "tree" of equivalent size.
Wrap the moss with clear polyethylene sheeting. _This will preserve the moisture while allowing you to assess the condition of the layer. _Tie the bottom of the sheeting below the lower chalkline. _ The upper end may be left partially open to facilitate watering the layer if you are in a moderate climate. _If it is very dry, you may need to seal the top edge of the bag as well and open it occasionally to water.
Mark the plant with a tag indicating the date of the layering operation

13-Sep-2001	#2
TreeBay Tips:5¢ Advice:Free *MODERATOR GROUP* Join Date: Aug-2001 Location: Silicon Valley Country: USA USDA Zone: 9 AHS Heat Zone: 4 Posts: 9,738	Air Layering Instructions (2/3) Air Layering Instructions 2/3, Cont'd from prior message: MARK THE SITE OF THE LAYER Using a piece of chalk, mark a line around the circumference of the branch. _This will define the new "soil line" from which roots will emerge. _Roots sometimes emerge slightly higher than this point, so take this into consideration. Mark a second line below the first, completely around the trunk. _This line should be positioned at a distance approximately equal to the width of the branch being layered. _ This line defines the lower portion of the layer. _The bark between the two lines will be removed as follows: Using a sharp knife (Our folding grafting JR-0190 is ideal) scribe a 1/8" deep cut around the upper chalkline. _The idea is to completely penetrate the bark down to bare wood. _This is usually around 1/8" deep, but on thick- or rough barked trees like elm or pine it can be substantially deeper. Cut a second line around the lower chalkline. Using the knife, peel away the bark between the two chalklines. _Remove it all the way down to the bare wood, which will be evident by its whitish color. Remove anything greenish between the cuts PREPARE THE SITE Make sure that the wound near the upper chalkline is cut cleanly. _It may be necessary to clean up the cut with the grafting knife. _This is particularly important, because this is the point at which the roots should be developing. You may twist a thick piece of bonsai wire tightly around the circumference of the upper chalkline, just beneath the newly cut edge. _This helps to ensure that the tree generates roots rather than simply healing over the wound. _It also helps ensure a balalanced root system by helping to define the edge at which the roots will develop. Swab the area with a liquid rooting hormone or paint on a slurry of powdered rooting hormone. Drench a handful of moss in water. This should be the long, threaded Canadian variety of moss used in planter baskets, not the chopped fine sphagnum. Pack the region with sphagnum moss and tie it in place with twine or bonsai wire applied lightly. Add more moss to the region. _You want enough moss to enable a rootball large enough to sustain the layered branch. _This requires some judgement, but it would be approximately the size of an appropriate bonsai pot for a "tree" of equivalent size. Wrap the moss with clear polyethylene sheeting. _This will preserve the moisture while allowing you to assess the condition of the layer. _Tie the bottom of the sheeting below the lower chalkline. _ The upper end may be left partially open to facilitate watering the layer if you are in a moderate climate. _If it is very dry, you may need to seal the top edge of the bag as well and open it occasionally to water. Mark the plant with a tag indicating the date of the layering operation __________________ Want to be a seller on bonsaiAUCTIONS? Get authorized today! bonsaiTALK: Over 100,005.36 Megabytes Served this Month!