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Washout,

If the red is a bloodgood, you are going to have a very coarse foliage (for a maple) to work with. I don't know of anyone who has used a silver maple to good effect with bonsai. Either way, a large bonsai is your suggested size.

Other than that, I would recommend the trunk chop in the mid to late winter. Other times can be successful, but they are more risky and can't be done in conjunction with the following.

I have to assume the goal is to start a bonsai. If so, a growing container or training pot is a step that can, and should, be taken in conjunction with the trunk cut. Most growth in the ground is to thicken the trunk (for our endeavor). If you are happy with the trunk thickness, why not pot it while the tree does not have large amounts of branches to support? Less tree surface equals less need for roots. The two "cut-backs" combined actually improve the chances of survival. Once it is in the growing container/pot, good feeding and branch selection will quickly form the structure of your design. Then it is just a matter of ramification, and yes, time, for the bonsai to take on its shape.

The only time I ever did a hard trunk cut in summer was in late June one year when I returned from vacation and found that a triple-trunk deshojo of mine was under-watered. I started a complete defoliation of the tree, and then made the decision that only one of the three trunks looked like it would survive (it was in more shade). I cut the two other trunks off and sealed it with lac balsam. The remaining trunk lived, but it never regained vigor. It didn't put out a leave this spring (dead). While, not exactly the same circumstances you have, I hope you understand my suggestion for caution. Sphagnum moss, shade, careful watering/humidity, didn't make up for the trauma.

One last remark, remember that maples are often completely defoliated two, even three times, during a growing season. Therefore, the hard cut-back in late winter will allow much more potential for ramification in one year than if you try to do it later. I would think that if a maple is cut back hard in spring or early summer, any defoliation afterwards would become downright dangerous.
Just an opinion, but I have followed it myself with both bonsai and landscape trees with very good results.

Good luck,

John

4-Jun-2004	#13
John Dixon Air Assault All The Way. Join Date: Mar-2004 Location: Huntersville, NC (near Charlotte) Country: USA USDA Zone: 7-8 AHS Heat Zone: 7 Posts: 1,731	Washout, If the red is a bloodgood, you are going to have a very coarse foliage (for a maple) to work with. I don't know of anyone who has used a silver maple to good effect with bonsai. Either way, a large bonsai is your suggested size. Other than that, I would recommend the trunk chop in the mid to late winter. Other times can be successful, but they are more risky and can't be done in conjunction with the following. I have to assume the goal is to start a bonsai. If so, a growing container or training pot is a step that can, and should, be taken in conjunction with the trunk cut. Most growth in the ground is to thicken the trunk (for our endeavor). If you are happy with the trunk thickness, why not pot it while the tree does not have large amounts of branches to support? Less tree surface equals less need for roots. The two "cut-backs" combined actually improve the chances of survival. Once it is in the growing container/pot, good feeding and branch selection will quickly form the structure of your design. Then it is just a matter of ramification, and yes, time, for the bonsai to take on its shape. The only time I ever did a hard trunk cut in summer was in late June one year when I returned from vacation and found that a triple-trunk deshojo of mine was under-watered. I started a complete defoliation of the tree, and then made the decision that only one of the three trunks looked like it would survive (it was in more shade). I cut the two other trunks off and sealed it with lac balsam. The remaining trunk lived, but it never regained vigor. It didn't put out a leave this spring (dead). While, not exactly the same circumstances you have, I hope you understand my suggestion for caution. Sphagnum moss, shade, careful watering/humidity, didn't make up for the trauma. One last remark, remember that maples are often completely defoliated two, even three times, during a growing season. Therefore, the hard cut-back in late winter will allow much more potential for ramification in one year than if you try to do it later. I would think that if a maple is cut back hard in spring or early summer, any defoliation afterwards would become downright dangerous. Just an opinion, but I have followed it myself with both bonsai and landscape trees with very good results. Good luck, John __________________ John Dixon Si vis pacem parabellum Stay off the trails of others, that's where the booby-traps are.