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Obliverate wrote:

"Along these lines, is there a 'school' of thought in Bonsai that doesnt believe in treating the tree with anything except time, pinching, pruning and de-barking"

Pinching is a type of hand pruning used on developing foliage while it is still succulent (that means it hasn't hardened off yet).

Pinching can be used to

1. Make the tree more compact by reducing the spacing between buds and twigs
2. Direct growth to other (unpinched) areas of the tree
3. Create smaller, more delicate foliage
4. Shape the contours of a branch and the silhouette of the tree. Pinching is an excellent way to develop foliage clouds and pads.

Pinching is just one technique in controlling growth. It can be a powerful one if it is done correctly. How much growth you can pinch depends on the health of the tree and the strength of the branch (may depend on its location on the tree, too).

Playing with Pinching

If you'd like to experiment with pinching your juniper, you'll want to try the strongest branch tips first. Those are generally found on the apex (top) and at the ends of the outermost branches. If you have a camera you can keep a record for comparison's sake, because it will take a couple of months to see the results.

When to pinch:

Pinching needs to be done when the growth is still succulent, before it has hardened off. Trees grow in flushes, and with your juniper from time to time you'll see lime green branches extending from the tips. If you're right handed, you can grasp the branch in your left hand and using the fingertips of your right hand, splay and pluck some of the lime green growth. It will be soft enough that it should tear away easily without much trouble. Pinching about half of the new growth is a good start.

Now watch over the next couple of months how that branch develops.

Pinching is just one technique for controlling growth. It would be very hard to develop a convincing bonsai by using pinching alone. Thinning and wiring will reveal and refine the bonsai's shape, and at some point you will need to prune away branches that have become too thick.

Pinching deciduous broadleaf trees:

If this were a deciduous tree, we would be talking about when to pinch in terms of how many leaves had developed at the branch terminal. Depending on your goals you might pinch after 2, 4 or more branches had developed. The sooner you pinch, the more pronounced the result. It is not unusual on the strongest areas of a maple, for example to actually force the bud open and pinch out its center before it extends.

Hope this helps you get started! Give it a try, and come back with any questions.

Regards,

Matt

16-Apr-2004	#17
TreeBay Tips:5¢ Advice:Free *MODERATOR GROUP* Join Date: Aug-2001 Location: Silicon Valley Country: USA USDA Zone: 9 AHS Heat Zone: 4 Posts: 9,745	Obliverate wrote: "Along these lines, is there a 'school' of thought in Bonsai that doesnt believe in treating the tree with anything except time, pinching, pruning and de-barking" Pinching is a type of hand pruning used on developing foliage while it is still succulent (that means it hasn't hardened off yet). Pinching can be used to 1. Make the tree more compact by reducing the spacing between buds and twigs 2. Direct growth to other (unpinched) areas of the tree 3. Create smaller, more delicate foliage 4. Shape the contours of a branch and the silhouette of the tree. Pinching is an excellent way to develop foliage clouds and pads. Pinching is just one technique in controlling growth. It can be a powerful one if it is done correctly. How much growth you can pinch depends on the health of the tree and the strength of the branch (may depend on its location on the tree, too). Playing with Pinching If you'd like to experiment with pinching your juniper, you'll want to try the strongest branch tips first. Those are generally found on the apex (top) and at the ends of the outermost branches. If you have a camera you can keep a record for comparison's sake, because it will take a couple of months to see the results. When to pinch: Pinching needs to be done when the growth is still succulent, before it has hardened off. Trees grow in flushes, and with your juniper from time to time you'll see lime green branches extending from the tips. If you're right handed, you can grasp the branch in your left hand and using the fingertips of your right hand, splay and pluck some of the lime green growth. It will be soft enough that it should tear away easily without much trouble. Pinching about half of the new growth is a good start. Now watch over the next couple of months how that branch develops. Pinching is just one technique for controlling growth. It would be very hard to develop a convincing bonsai by using pinching alone. Thinning and wiring will reveal and refine the bonsai's shape, and at some point you will need to prune away branches that have become too thick. Pinching deciduous broadleaf trees: If this were a deciduous tree, we would be talking about when to pinch in terms of how many leaves had developed at the branch terminal. Depending on your goals you might pinch after 2, 4 or more branches had developed. The sooner you pinch, the more pronounced the result. It is not unusual on the strongest areas of a maple, for example to actually force the bud open and pinch out its center before it extends. Hope this helps you get started! Give it a try, and come back with any questions. Regards, Matt __________________ Want to be a seller on bonsaiAUCTIONS? Get authorized today! bonsaiTALK: Over 100,005.36 Megabytes Served this Month!