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Sigh.

For those of you relatively inexperienced ( and I say that nicely,hope you are not offended. Not my intention) here is some information on that black pine grown in the south. It was put together by my good friend John Underwood. He gave me permission a few years ago to use this info as I deemed necessary.

Not a lot of work if you are dedicated.

Hope it helps.

JAPANESE BLACK PINE - Two Needle Pine

Notes regarding pinching/reducing the needle size compiled by Jon H. UnderwoodThe Japanese black pine, Pinus thunbergii, is, according to tradition, a masculine pine with a black trunk and strong branches. It usually grows in locations where there are frequent storms, often on ocean cliffs, enduring the buffeting of the elements. For that reason it is considered masculine and from that springs the challenge of expressing its character as a bonsai. According to Mr. Kozuo Oishi, "the secret of achieving that masculine character is simply this: few, but very thick, branches".

The following are notes taken from various sources and modified to what I sense is the Mt. Pleasant/Charleston, SC microclimate. Based (only) upon my first low-country winter/spring season it is my position that this "low-country region" is about four to six weeks ahead of what I was used to in Memphis, TN, Virginia Beach, VA. and mid-Japan. Most of our resources are based upon the climate of central Japan and I hope I have modified this guideline appropriately. Consequently I suggest the following:

FROM OCTOBER TO JANUARY -Winter needle pulling.

The key to achieving a beautiful bonsai consists of knowing how to balance and distribute the energy provided by the roots. The bonsai is customarily divided into three distinct zones of strength, from top to bottom, strong, medium and weak. Due to the natural vigor of the species there is a great deal of difference between the strong and the weak areas. Consideration of budding in the coming year is essential in order to correct those differences and the first step toward it is removing some of the needles.

This is done from late autumn to mid-winter when the needles are thoroughly matured. Dividing the tree into three parts, pull out quite a number of needles in the strong zone (top), thus checking the vigor of these branches. Within the strong zone reduce to 4 to 6 needle sets per each petiole you keep. From one week to ten days later work on the medium zone, reducing each set to from 6 to 8 needles. And from a week to ten days later work on the weak zone, including the interior, leaving 8 to 10 sets of needles. As a rule of thumb, the area of medium strength is cleaned of little more than the old needles and in the weak areas (generally the low branches and the inner portion of the branches) none at all are removed. Remember that a black pine has 2 or 3 needles in each cluster.

After pulling out the needle pairs, always in winter, small branches that are not useful may be pruned and the remaining ones wired to establish the best framework for the design. REMEMBER: If a branch has no needles it will not bud.

LATE JANUARY/EARLY FEBRUARY - Late winter needle pulling.

If the design is already well established, if it is a mature bonsai and is healthy, pull additional needles just before budding, leaving only three needle pairs around each shoot of medium and strong vigor. Be careful, as this is not effective if the tree has already budded. The procedure maintains and invigorates the weak parts, forcing the strong one to bud slowly. Be very watchful and have knowledge of the previous years activity - otherwise skip. However, this is very effective on already formed trees and the denser the bonsai, the better it works.

MID-MARCH THRU MID-APRIL - Spring Candle Pinching.

Budding, is the development of candles (new needles/leaves) and is characteristic of mature pines. In Charleston, budding seems to appear in late February and by April these buds have fully developed into candles ready to burst into individual sets of needles. Potential problem: if the candles are allowed to grow without pinching them back, the new needles would grow on top of the old ones, ruining the work of the previous year.

Pinching back is required to control the number and length of needles and the assist in the control of energy. Pinching the candles back is easy. Hold the candle with one hand, break the candle with the other, leaving one-half to one-third of the total length.

IN ABOUT MID-MAY - Summer candle removal.

If my thoughts on timing are correct, and we are about 4 to 6 weeks ahead of mid-Japan I would guess that by mid-May our candles would have opened out into needles, forming the first shoots of the year. Differences in strength will be very visible.

Next, the aim of pruning (cutting off) this new growth is to achieve balance. When pruning the shoots, the future design must be kept in mind. By cutting off the shoots that are growing upward, growth of horizontal ones are encouraged.

As previously reported the bonsai is divided into three parts, from top to bottom, strong, medium and weak areas. Starting with the weak area, the lowest third of the tree, in mid-May (about 15 May), cut off all the weak buds/candles, leaving about 1/16 inch stub. If the shoot should be fairly thick, leave about 1/8 inch at the base.

A week or 10 days later (about 22 May) remove the buds in the medium strength area leaving about 1/16 of an inch stub, etc.

And in another week or 10 days (30 May) remove all the strong buds from the top part of the tree, again leaving a 1/16-inch stub.

END OF JUNE, FIRST OF JULY. Bud Pinching.

If the bonsai is healthy, almost immediately after removal of the candles, a second budding occurs. It is my experience that this takes a couple of weeks. At the end of June or early July this second budding should be well formed. Using the same approach, i.e. the three strength areas of the tree begin pinching the buds you desire to keep and remove all unnecessary buds with tweezers. Usually only two buds are left. Keep in mind that the interior of the upper and middle parts of the bonsai is also weak and should be worked on at the same time as the lowest/weakest area. In the same manner as the candles was pinched back, leave a space of a week or ten days between areas in order to equalize the budding. It must be remembered - removal of the buds is strictly related to the pinching back of the candles. Do not pinch or prune buds after the month of August.

- When strong candles are pinched back, 5 or 6 new strong buds will appear. If all are allowed to remain, nothing will have been accomplished. Essentially, of those 5 or 6 new buds leave only two, eliminating the unnecessary ones as soon as possible after they appear. When deciding which buds to remove, consider the direction toward which the shoots that will emerge from them will grow; then keep those that are of interest.

STANDARD PRACTICES OF CARE:

Position: Full Sun. As a general rule, pines need a lot of light and do badly in the shade. Hearty, however, provide some protection from frost and freezing winter winds.

Watering: Very drought-resistant but likes plenty of water, provided the soil is quick draining. Check daily, but water only when soil shows signs of dryness. In winter, water sparingly. To control the length of needles water sparingly while candles are developing.

Feeding: Start fertilizing in early spring (March). Do not fertilize in the extreme summer heat (too hot will burn the bonsai).

Ventilation: Pines like the wind and thrive in places with a lot of air movement.

Repotting: Young trees in early to mid-spring every two to five years, depending on age and root development. Real old trees can go from 10 to 15 years without repotting. Prune the roots by a third, taking care not to damage the main root.

Soil: Pines have no special requirements, and adapt to any kind of soil; however, I recommend a good draining soil.

Wiring: Wire in autumn and in winter. Repeat each year IF necessary. Do not squash the needles between the wire and the bark.

Pests and diseases: Very hearty; however, I’ve had trouble with the Pine Tip Moth here in the south. I begin a 10-day interval of spraying my pines with Ortho Orthene in May. These moths destroy new candles and new growth. Some say it is nature’s way of pruning.

Watch out for Pine-leaf cast or red band disease. The needles on the lower branches turn yellow in winter and are covered with black spots in spring. Treatment: Destroy damaged material, and ensure that the soil is not too wet. As a precaution spray with fungicide in spring.

Read your manuals for possible additional problems.

27-Aug-2003	#8
RonMartin(deceased) Bonsai nare-do-well Join Date: Jan-2003 Location: Summerville SC Country: USA USDA Zone: 8A AHS Heat Zone: 8 Posts: 4,653	Sigh. For those of you relatively inexperienced ( and I say that nicely,hope you are not offended. Not my intention) here is some information on that black pine grown in the south. It was put together by my good friend John Underwood. He gave me permission a few years ago to use this info as I deemed necessary. Not a lot of work if you are dedicated. Hope it helps. JAPANESE BLACK PINE - Two Needle Pine Notes regarding pinching/reducing the needle size compiled by Jon H. UnderwoodThe Japanese black pine, Pinus thunbergii, is, according to tradition, a masculine pine with a black trunk and strong branches. It usually grows in locations where there are frequent storms, often on ocean cliffs, enduring the buffeting of the elements. For that reason it is considered masculine and from that springs the challenge of expressing its character as a bonsai. According to Mr. Kozuo Oishi, "the secret of achieving that masculine character is simply this: few, but very thick, branches". The following are notes taken from various sources and modified to what I sense is the Mt. Pleasant/Charleston, SC microclimate. Based (only) upon my first low-country winter/spring season it is my position that this "low-country region" is about four to six weeks ahead of what I was used to in Memphis, TN, Virginia Beach, VA. and mid-Japan. Most of our resources are based upon the climate of central Japan and I hope I have modified this guideline appropriately. Consequently I suggest the following: FROM OCTOBER TO JANUARY -Winter needle pulling. The key to achieving a beautiful bonsai consists of knowing how to balance and distribute the energy provided by the roots. The bonsai is customarily divided into three distinct zones of strength, from top to bottom, strong, medium and weak. Due to the natural vigor of the species there is a great deal of difference between the strong and the weak areas. Consideration of budding in the coming year is essential in order to correct those differences and the first step toward it is removing some of the needles. This is done from late autumn to mid-winter when the needles are thoroughly matured. Dividing the tree into three parts, pull out quite a number of needles in the strong zone (top), thus checking the vigor of these branches. Within the strong zone reduce to 4 to 6 needle sets per each petiole you keep. From one week to ten days later work on the medium zone, reducing each set to from 6 to 8 needles. And from a week to ten days later work on the weak zone, including the interior, leaving 8 to 10 sets of needles. As a rule of thumb, the area of medium strength is cleaned of little more than the old needles and in the weak areas (generally the low branches and the inner portion of the branches) none at all are removed. Remember that a black pine has 2 or 3 needles in each cluster. After pulling out the needle pairs, always in winter, small branches that are not useful may be pruned and the remaining ones wired to establish the best framework for the design. REMEMBER: If a branch has no needles it will not bud. LATE JANUARY/EARLY FEBRUARY - Late winter needle pulling. If the design is already well established, if it is a mature bonsai and is healthy, pull additional needles just before budding, leaving only three needle pairs around each shoot of medium and strong vigor. Be careful, as this is not effective if the tree has already budded. The procedure maintains and invigorates the weak parts, forcing the strong one to bud slowly. Be very watchful and have knowledge of the previous years activity - otherwise skip. However, this is very effective on already formed trees and the denser the bonsai, the better it works. MID-MARCH THRU MID-APRIL - Spring Candle Pinching. Budding, is the development of candles (new needles/leaves) and is characteristic of mature pines. In Charleston, budding seems to appear in late February and by April these buds have fully developed into candles ready to burst into individual sets of needles. Potential problem: if the candles are allowed to grow without pinching them back, the new needles would grow on top of the old ones, ruining the work of the previous year. Pinching back is required to control the number and length of needles and the assist in the control of energy. Pinching the candles back is easy. Hold the candle with one hand, break the candle with the other, leaving one-half to one-third of the total length. IN ABOUT MID-MAY - Summer candle removal. If my thoughts on timing are correct, and we are about 4 to 6 weeks ahead of mid-Japan I would guess that by mid-May our candles would have opened out into needles, forming the first shoots of the year. Differences in strength will be very visible. Next, the aim of pruning (cutting off) this new growth is to achieve balance. When pruning the shoots, the future design must be kept in mind. By cutting off the shoots that are growing upward, growth of horizontal ones are encouraged. As previously reported the bonsai is divided into three parts, from top to bottom, strong, medium and weak areas. Starting with the weak area, the lowest third of the tree, in mid-May (about 15 May), cut off all the weak buds/candles, leaving about 1/16 inch stub. If the shoot should be fairly thick, leave about 1/8 inch at the base. A week or 10 days later (about 22 May) remove the buds in the medium strength area leaving about 1/16 of an inch stub, etc. And in another week or 10 days (30 May) remove all the strong buds from the top part of the tree, again leaving a 1/16-inch stub. END OF JUNE, FIRST OF JULY. Bud Pinching. If the bonsai is healthy, almost immediately after removal of the candles, a second budding occurs. It is my experience that this takes a couple of weeks. At the end of June or early July this second budding should be well formed. Using the same approach, i.e. the three strength areas of the tree begin pinching the buds you desire to keep and remove all unnecessary buds with tweezers. Usually only two buds are left. Keep in mind that the interior of the upper and middle parts of the bonsai is also weak and should be worked on at the same time as the lowest/weakest area. In the same manner as the candles was pinched back, leave a space of a week or ten days between areas in order to equalize the budding. It must be remembered - removal of the buds is strictly related to the pinching back of the candles. Do not pinch or prune buds after the month of August. - When strong candles are pinched back, 5 or 6 new strong buds will appear. If all are allowed to remain, nothing will have been accomplished. Essentially, of those 5 or 6 new buds leave only two, eliminating the unnecessary ones as soon as possible after they appear. When deciding which buds to remove, consider the direction toward which the shoots that will emerge from them will grow; then keep those that are of interest. STANDARD PRACTICES OF CARE: Position: Full Sun. As a general rule, pines need a lot of light and do badly in the shade. Hearty, however, provide some protection from frost and freezing winter winds. Watering: Very drought-resistant but likes plenty of water, provided the soil is quick draining. Check daily, but water only when soil shows signs of dryness. In winter, water sparingly. To control the length of needles water sparingly while candles are developing. Feeding: Start fertilizing in early spring (March). Do not fertilize in the extreme summer heat (too hot will burn the bonsai). Ventilation: Pines like the wind and thrive in places with a lot of air movement. Repotting: Young trees in early to mid-spring every two to five years, depending on age and root development. Real old trees can go from 10 to 15 years without repotting. Prune the roots by a third, taking care not to damage the main root. Soil: Pines have no special requirements, and adapt to any kind of soil; however, I recommend a good draining soil. Wiring: Wire in autumn and in winter. Repeat each year IF necessary. Do not squash the needles between the wire and the bark. Pests and diseases: Very hearty; however, I’ve had trouble with the Pine Tip Moth here in the south. I begin a 10-day interval of spraying my pines with Ortho Orthene in May. These moths destroy new candles and new growth. Some say it is nature’s way of pruning. Watch out for Pine-leaf cast or red band disease. The needles on the lower branches turn yellow in winter and are covered with black spots in spring. Treatment: Destroy damaged material, and ensure that the soil is not too wet. As a precaution spray with fungicide in spring. Read your manuals for possible additional problems.