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Don't use the flowering portions, which developed last year. Take instead the new shoots that will emerge vigorously from the region around the base of the flower bud in the next few weeks usually after the flower has fallen or been removed. Wait until these new shoots are about 2-3 inches long, then snap them off.

If I remember correctly the suggestion I posted before the crash was that softwood azalea cuttings be stripped (using the fingers and snapping the fresh, succulent growth right off at last year's wood). Then remove about 2/3 of the lower leaves and dip in a rooting hormone like DIP & GRO or ROOTONE.

Plant a bunch of these close together in a well-drained medium. The leaves can touch, and it's better if they do cause the humidity will help each plant. I usually use some akadama, which is a Japanese porous volcanic soil, but you could try perlite or perlite + sand. The important thing is to keep watering. Usually daily for me through the summer. I get about 50% of the cuttings to strike without doing anything else.

Regards,

Matt

1-Jun-2003	#2
TreeBay Tips:5¢ Advice:Free *MODERATOR GROUP* Join Date: Aug-2001 Location: Silicon Valley Country: USA USDA Zone: 9 AHS Heat Zone: 4 Posts: 9,745	Don't use the flowering portions, which developed last year. Take instead the new shoots that will emerge vigorously from the region around the base of the flower bud in the next few weeks usually after the flower has fallen or been removed. Wait until these new shoots are about 2-3 inches long, then snap them off. If I remember correctly the suggestion I posted before the crash was that softwood azalea cuttings be stripped (using the fingers and snapping the fresh, succulent growth right off at last year's wood). Then remove about 2/3 of the lower leaves and dip in a rooting hormone like DIP & GRO or ROOTONE. Plant a bunch of these close together in a well-drained medium. The leaves can touch, and it's better if they do cause the humidity will help each plant. I usually use some akadama, which is a Japanese porous volcanic soil, but you could try perlite or perlite + sand. The important thing is to keep watering. Usually daily for me through the summer. I get about 50% of the cuttings to strike without doing anything else. Regards, Matt __________________ Want to be a seller on bonsaiAUCTIONS? Get authorized today! bonsaiTALK: Over 100,005.36 Megabytes Served this Month!