[QUOTE=constantstaticx]I liked the angle and the pot of the first pic. It was a nice composition as it was. Now I think the trunks are too straight to be realistic.
After reviewing all the photos I think Tom is right, even to the point of saying the first picture (fall 2007) has the best angle and look for the two trunks.
You said a problem with that front are the thick branches in the apex. If you take a series of pictures when the tree is leafless it may help with your decision. There is only so much you can do with the trunks, but the heavy branches on the apex can be drastically cut back and rebuilt. From what I can see of the apical branches they look long, without ramification.
Your number one priority (other than the health of the tree) is to ignore the canopy branches and find the front that looks best with the two trunks. This means the smaller trunk either comes forward or back, and is not in line with the main trunk. They need to angle away from each other, but not too drastically for this style. A little movement keeps them from looking like sticks with leaves attached. The Fall 2007 picture had all that.
Let everything grow out. In late winter 2009 you can cut the offending branches WAY back.
And I know it feels like going backwards, but if you seriously want to rebuild the top of this tree you need to pop it into a growing box for two years, just to get it healthy for the chop and preliminary branch rebuilding. I think you will be glad you did.
If it helps, every time I take one of my deciduous trees into a class, thinking I've done a great job building ramification, I leave with two thirds of the branches cut off. My teacher constantly tells me the framework comes first.
Please let me know if I've gone to far. I'm not used to being so openly opinionated about people's trees.
Carmen