I'm just wondering why you are hiding the widest part of the trunk in order to try to get some smooth taper? I'd air layer that large gun-barrel part, which will give it some taper, and then make a far less ordinary tree from the huge base you have here.
When looking at a tree to find its best presentation, or "front," it's important to take into consideration some very simple concepts. First, we want to try to find the best front for the first six inches of the base. This will usually, though not always, mean the widest trunk base possible, unless there are serious flaws there.
Second, we look for movement and/or taper in that trunk base. This one shows some real interest in its base if we can look beyond the ordinary. Look how rugged it is, and is that the beginning of an uro high on the trunk? I'd love to see more photos. When I do this I try to take at least eight photos from the same tripod setup. It helps if the tree is on a turntable. Then I can flip through them as if the tree were turning in front of me. Do this in front of a large backdrop, solid dark color, or lighter for this tree. Many times we see things in photos we can't in person, and vice versa.
Third, we look for the best nebari possible while taking into consideration the first two points. However, nebari is easy to improve over time, but movement, taper, and girth are not.
Fourth, we want the life line, in junipers with shari, to be visible where it emerges from the soil, which give the tree more dynamism and life, and shows it is not tanuki. (This moves up in priority when looking at collected trees.)
I think you made a great purchase, perhaps better than you know. I'd think long and hard about what you want to make this tree into. It could be a good tree. Or it could become a great, famous tree.