Thread: Thinning fruit
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Old 17-Apr-2008   #5
bonsainotwar
Grower of potted sticks
 
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Join Date: Dec-2005
Location: NewMexico
Country: USA
Posts: 307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mcspeed
What stage of developement is the tree at? Allowing a tree to fruit takes energy away from the overall vigor of the tree. In the early stages many allow no fruiting at all, then only one to a few for showing, Some even attach fruit to a tree for show, and those would come from the grocery store.Never heard of a hard and fast rule about # per size of tree, but if they are going to be allowed to grow, like jbhayman said, make it look good, but not at the expense of the trees health.

As sort of an update,let me say,in March,I had a lot of blue orchard bees come through,now all of my bonsai that are old enough to fruit,are forming same.I have avery unusual "Methley" plum,which I have been working on since 2000,that only wants to grow as a broom bonsai.It bloomed heavily. So much so,that the flowers were causing such a strain on the tree,that the foliage had lost all of its color,literally.I guess flowers can do this as well as fruit.I have gotten rid of all the fruit,but one,on the plum,and the color is returning to the tree.

I have left two fruit,on each of my my two cherries that are fruiting.Both are about ten years old.One is about 75% trained as a bonsai,the other about 30% trained.It was thinned,as much as for vigor of the fruit as for the display quality.The least trained tree,a Prunus Cisterna,has a double fruit.

Next I start thinning my apple and my crab.I guess there is no hard and fast rule about fruiting.I have seen people who say you should skip a year, but right now I am leaning towards letting the tree have one or two fruit every year.
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