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Originally Posted by Asus101
Well I have made a small start on these two, maybe you can advise here Fly.
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Gday Asus!
Sorry it's taken so long, but I've been wracking my brain to come up with some useful, responsible answers for you. I'll attempt to address each of your queries in order, and hopefully you will be better able to make an informed decision with these trees.
I have re-visited the Koreshoffs' book, and I believe the key to working with such young stock lies in their statement:
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Originally Posted by Dorothy & Vita Koreshoff, "Bonsai With Australian Native Plants", Page 7
One important fact to bear in mind [when collecting from the wild] is - the older the plant, the harder it will be to change its habitat.
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This is to say that many of the 'rules' pertaining to the culture and treatment of mature (possibly collected) Eucs may be bent considerably when working with tubestock such as yours.
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Originally Posted by Asus101
As per the book Bonsai with Australian natives by the koreshoff, I have made sure there in no upwards growth. All those branches that wer growing up off the trunk have been twisted to side branches.
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OK, so this 'rule' is still applicable, even with young Eucs, and the evidence to support it is readily visible. Your choice of species (and individual specimens) has been good, in that they display short internodes, good natural movement, and the ability to shoot low on the trunk, however it is this last characteristic which will most likely force you to alter your design plans in the very near future. It is apparent that these treelings have suffered some form of trauma in the past few months - most likely caused by a period of dryness and/or hot winds - and have subsequently been nursed back to health, as evidenced the vigorous lower growth. Unfortunately, the imbalance of energy between the healthy lower growth [1 & 2] and the compromised original growth [3 & 4] will be difficult (if not impossible) to overcome, regardless of pruning/wiring, as pruning/wiring will tend only to affect growth
lower on the tree, and
not higher up.
In short, I expect that the original trunks will continue to dieback, at least as far as the black lines, regardless of anything you do to the new growth. This damage was already done before you bought the seedlings, so don't be too hard on yourself.
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Originally Posted by Asus101
As soon as the new growth has matured on the second gum (the one having the main trunk, and not two.) will have a spilt made down the bottom. I hope to easy it apart very carefully and seal it up. Over time it should heal over. If it doesn't I still have the hollow in the trunk we see many gums have. but the decision is still just an idea.
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I am not familiar with the process of trunk-splitting, so any advice here is merely speculation on my part. (I recall you mentioned in Chat that a club mate of yours had performed the operation on a Euc a few years ago with great success, and the idea is certainly very interesting.) I would imagine that key factors in the success or failure of the operation would be the balance of roots on either side of the split (tubestock such as this can have wildly uneven rooting), and the presence (or absence) of a lignotuber beneath the soil's surface. As a lignotuber is essentially a Euc's powerhouse, I would be wary of tampering with it. That said, the lignotuber is
"made up of undifferentiated cells, which... have the ability to either produce branches or roots"*, so 'correctly' splitting one along the length of the trunk
may well add to trunk taper and surface rooting. This is all speculation, mind you...
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Originally Posted by Asus101
The first one is very undecided. I'm not completely sure on were to go.
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I wouldn't worry too much about styling this one yet - as I suggested above, this tree is probably making your decisions for you at this point. I'd concentrate on getting it potted up for the time being.**
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Originally Posted by Asus101
Fly have you de foliated completely?
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I had done in the past, but lately I have managed to 'read' my trees in such a way that total defoliation has been unnecessary - and could possibly have even been detrimental.**
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Also getting them to go dormant now as the new growth is mid way through, is it a good idea? I don't want it to start pushing more nre growth before I can re pot and root prune.
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This is one of the 'rules' which is more flexible with regards to young tubestock. I would be less concerned with what's going on up top than what the roots are doing, as the top can be pruned/defoliated to simulate dormancy. If the roots have thick, white tips, they are actively growing, and some caution is warranted when repotting. If white tips are scarce or not present, rootwork may be a little more aggressive.**
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Originally Posted by Asus101
When re potting tube stock, can one completely wash the roots so no old soil is left?
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I wouldn't, for a couple of reasons. Firstly, at this stage of development, a Euc's roots
may be so delicate that washing out the soil could destroy the roots altogether. Secondly, (I'm no biologist) healthy Eucs such as these
may have developed beneficial bacteria and/or fungus in their soil - because of this possibility, I prefer to leave as much original soil in place as is practicable, and I like to mix the remaining original soil into the new soil.**
Thanks and good luck.
Fly.
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* Koreshoff, "Bonsai With Australian Native Plants", Page 50.
** I hope to post a follow-up with detailed photographs, illustrating how I would treat Euc tubestock of similar age and condition to yours. Please find attached a pic of 10
Corymbia citriodora (formerly
Eucalyptus citriodora) I purchased for $5. Expect this follow-up soon.