ozzerbon

Fresh Ginkgo seeds can be bought from most if not all Chinese TOKOs, [Chinese super markets], my experiments prove these seeds to be viable.

The programme following I found in The Ginkgo Pages [see Google] by Cor Kwant, who gave me permission to enter her article.

You will find my two seedlings reproduced in my gallery, I planted them directly in akadama in individual organic pots, October 20th, in a small plastic propagator in an east facing window. The moment the seeds showed signs of germination, I placed them directly into the pots that you can see in the photographs. They shall remain inthose pots for at least another year, and it is my intention to wire in spring 2003, into miniature semicascade trees.

ozzerbon

THE NOTES OF COR KWANT, follow.

Stratification:
Although this is not strictly necessary research has proven that germination is better if the seeds experience some cold temperature for 2 months.

Scarification:
Chip the seeds with a sharp knife or make a few swipes with a sharp edged file or use sandpaper to allow moisture being more readily absorbed (imitating the stomach of seed dispersers like the dinosaurs were). Then soak the seeds in cold or lukewarm water for about 24 hours to soften the coat.
Seeds that remain floating will most likely not germinate so you can throw them away. Then put the remaining non-floating seeds into a 10% bleach solution (water/bleach 9:1) for about 10 minutes to protect against fungus, rinse well 2 times after that. Dry them briefly between paper towels.
After my own research attempts I ended up with these possible stratification methods:

Put 3-5 seeds in 3 times the amount of moist sterile sand (1 part water + 4 parts of sand) or moistened kitchen towels or slightly dampened vermiculite (or perlite) or moist peat. Moist means no dripping when squeezing a handful or with kitchen towels no dripping when holding at one corner. Moistening can also be combined with spraying with a fungicide. Vermiculite is sterile, inexpensive and for sale in garden centers etc.

Put this in a little container or small sealed polythene bag in the fridge (+ 50C). If you use kitchen towels place the seeds on one half, cover with the other half, put in matching thin polythene bag and close it. Mold growing on the towel is no problem, just get a new towel. Check twice a week for fungus and germination and turn them over. Germination time is 30-60 days, so start about 2 months before your spring begins with stratification.

After stratification move 3-5 seeds into 4-6" pots. The pots must be clean and have at least one drainage hole and best is pots with ribs or slits to get better rootforming. Use fresh soaked sandy potting soil (40% sand with some grit or perlite) (you may spray a fungicide again). Best is sandy loam that drains well. Sowing depth about 0,6"=1,5 cm. Cover lightly with sand. Don't compact, just tap the soil. Put in a cold frame or indoors in a light place, not full sun. Mist daily, water only when necessary. Keep the soil moist, not wet.

After germination never let the roots dry out or stand in water. Take care of good air circulation. When the seedlings have grown enough put them outside (transplant in autumn into individual pots) in a shadowy position and fertilize (organic). Put in permanent position after about 2 years.