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Hi there!

I have a few gigantic pomegranate trees in my backyard, but the birds always get to the fruit before we do. I think it would be pretty cool to transform a pomegranate into a bonsai. In my bonsai book, it lists the things a pome bonsai will need. Here are some of the specifications.

Book- Bonsai: A care manual
Author: Colin Lewis

Where to keep:
Pomegranates adore the sun and can be exposed to full sun all day long, indoors or out. During the hottest months of the year it is advisable to shade the pots from sun through glass to prevent the roots from "cooking."
If you want your pomegranate to remain evergreen, maintain winter temperatures above 62.6F (17C). Below this temperature the tree will lose some or all of its leaves. Never allow the temperature to fall below 41F (5C), and protect from cold drafts at all times. Give as much light as possible in winter.

Maintenance:

Repotting- Every two or three years in early spring, before growth starts. Old plants can be left for up to five years before repotting. Use a mix of 50 percent organic matter and 50 percent grit or Akadama mized with 30 percent grit to ensure good drainage. Use a fairly deep pot.

Pruning- Prune unwanted branches in spring. Hard-prune all branches for structure immediately after flowering and then allow all new shoots to grow unchecked until flower buds can be seen on the shorter, non-extending shoots. At this point you can safely prune back the longer shoots to two or three leaves. These stubs will form the base for next year's flowering shoots.

Pinching- The flowers are borne on short shoots emerging from last year's growth. Restrict pinching to shoots that are over-extending during flowering. Pinching at any other time may restrict flowering.

Watering- Water well at all times. Although pomegranates like free-draining soil they can also be rather thirsty, preferring to grab as much water as possible as it drains through the soil. Water consumption increases while fruit is swelling. In winter reduce watering if the leaves fall.

Feeding- Balanced food until flowering commences, then stop feeding. Resume when flowering has finished, with low-nitrogen fertilizer. If the tree remains in leaf during winter, give a weak dose of slow-release organic balanced food. If your pomegranate is reluctant to flower, apply low-nitrogen fertilizer all summer and for as long into the autumn/winter as the tree remains in leaf. This should correct the problem within a year.

BEWARE: The branches on pomegranates are very brittle, even when quite young. Wire-train new shoots while they are still green and pliable, taking care not to create too-sharp angles which will crush the inner tissue and cause the shoot to die.

1-Jan-2008	#19
SlapSlapSlappy bonsaiTALK Artisan Join Date: Dec-2007 Location: Phoenix Country: AZ USA Posts: 102	Hi there! I have a few gigantic pomegranate trees in my backyard, but the birds always get to the fruit before we do. I think it would be pretty cool to transform a pomegranate into a bonsai. In my bonsai book, it lists the things a pome bonsai will need. Here are some of the specifications. Book- Bonsai: A care manual Author: Colin Lewis Where to keep: Pomegranates adore the sun and can be exposed to full sun all day long, indoors or out. During the hottest months of the year it is advisable to shade the pots from sun through glass to prevent the roots from "cooking." If you want your pomegranate to remain evergreen, maintain winter temperatures above 62.6F (17C). Below this temperature the tree will lose some or all of its leaves. Never allow the temperature to fall below 41F (5C), and protect from cold drafts at all times. Give as much light as possible in winter. Maintenance: Repotting- Every two or three years in early spring, before growth starts. Old plants can be left for up to five years before repotting. Use a mix of 50 percent organic matter and 50 percent grit or Akadama mized with 30 percent grit to ensure good drainage. Use a fairly deep pot. Pruning- Prune unwanted branches in spring. Hard-prune all branches for structure immediately after flowering and then allow all new shoots to grow unchecked until flower buds can be seen on the shorter, non-extending shoots. At this point you can safely prune back the longer shoots to two or three leaves. These stubs will form the base for next year's flowering shoots. Pinching- The flowers are borne on short shoots emerging from last year's growth. Restrict pinching to shoots that are over-extending during flowering. Pinching at any other time may restrict flowering. Watering- Water well at all times. Although pomegranates like free-draining soil they can also be rather thirsty, preferring to grab as much water as possible as it drains through the soil. Water consumption increases while fruit is swelling. In winter reduce watering if the leaves fall. Feeding- Balanced food until flowering commences, then stop feeding. Resume when flowering has finished, with low-nitrogen fertilizer. If the tree remains in leaf during winter, give a weak dose of slow-release organic balanced food. If your pomegranate is reluctant to flower, apply low-nitrogen fertilizer all summer and for as long into the autumn/winter as the tree remains in leaf. This should correct the problem within a year. BEWARE: The branches on pomegranates are very brittle, even when quite young. Wire-train new shoots while they are still green and pliable, taking care not to create too-sharp angles which will crush the inner tissue and cause the shoot to die.