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Depends on the stage of developementand the type of tree to some extent, but the best approach in my opinion is follow the lable instructions for potted plants, and cut it in half, and do it twice as often, some do 1/4 strength 4 times as often. With the fast draining soil that we use I like to break it up because the fert gets washed right out of the bottom of the pot.As to when to start now would be good, but it still comes down to individual trees have different needs for bonsai cultivation. For instance with Rocky mtn. Juniper you hold off a little in the spring to keep the new shoots from elongating too much and becoming spindley and weak, then bring up the strength.

__________________
If at first you don't succeed -- skydiving is not for you.

Always remember that you're unique -- just like everyone else

Enjoy this day.
Bill

19-Dec-2007	#4
Mcspeed bonsaiTALK Master Chief Join Date: Mar-2006 Location: West Springfield Massachusetts Country: USA USDA Zone: zone 5 AHS Heat Zone: ? Posts: 1,198	Depends on the stage of developementand the type of tree to some extent, but the best approach in my opinion is follow the lable instructions for potted plants, and cut it in half, and do it twice as often, some do 1/4 strength 4 times as often. With the fast draining soil that we use I like to break it up because the fert gets washed right out of the bottom of the pot.As to when to start now would be good, but it still comes down to individual trees have different needs for bonsai cultivation. For instance with Rocky mtn. Juniper you hold off a little in the spring to keep the new shoots from elongating too much and becoming spindley and weak, then bring up the strength. __________________ If at first you don't succeed -- skydiving is not for you. Always remember that you're unique -- just like everyone else Enjoy this day. Bill