bonsaiTALK Community - View Single Post - Lost Creek Tubing Benders

We staple one side the whole length of the building using nylon tape and a pneumatic stapler. then, tie a piece of rope to the plastic (scrunch the plastic film over a rock or tennis ball then tie around the base) with a hammer tied to the end and through the hammer over the frame (note to self: be sure that rope is not so long as to go into neighbors swimming pool...). The start attaching from on end to the other. When done, attach the ends.

As to construction, we designed a shape that we liked- and then calculate how to bend three pieces of top rail to get a hoop, essentiall you end up with two side pieces and a spanning piece. The hoops are then bolted to a wood base frame (2x6) using U-bolts with straps (I ordered from an internet bolt and connector company)once all off the hoops are attached to the frame, we put up the purlins (the horizontal steel pieces that provide the second component of strucutural rgidity). One purlin goes down the center of the structure (the "apical" purlin, or ridge (but it goes on the inside of the frame- hanging from the hoops not set on top)), and then one purlin goes down each side at the point where the hoop pieces (side and span) join to give a compression fitting that holds the frame together without drilling through the tubing. On the 4' hoop sppacing this was all that I did, except to attach a 1x6 or deck board nailing board at 4' above ground- this too is held in place with either J or U bolts. On the 8' spacing between hoops, we add an additional purlin on each side at approximately 5' and attach with the frame compression clamps. On each end we have piut up 4x4 posts set in gravel or concrete that go up to the frame and are used to anchor the frame and the end walls. We have not placed additional frame components inside, the span is open internally.

Our frames have been up for 6 years (4' spacing) or 5 years (8' spacing). We have had good snowloading, but using a padded 2x4 or brrom we have pushed up on the plastic from the inside to reduce snow on the frame.

This help?
John

21-Sep-2007	#16
Vonsgardens Professional Amateur Join Date: Feb-2005 Location: Arkansas Country: USA USDA Zone: 7 AHS Heat Zone: Hot Posts: 2,616	We staple one side the whole length of the building using nylon tape and a pneumatic stapler. then, tie a piece of rope to the plastic (scrunch the plastic film over a rock or tennis ball then tie around the base) with a hammer tied to the end and through the hammer over the frame (note to self: be sure that rope is not so long as to go into neighbors swimming pool...). The start attaching from on end to the other. When done, attach the ends. As to construction, we designed a shape that we liked- and then calculate how to bend three pieces of top rail to get a hoop, essentiall you end up with two side pieces and a spanning piece. The hoops are then bolted to a wood base frame (2x6) using U-bolts with straps (I ordered from an internet bolt and connector company)once all off the hoops are attached to the frame, we put up the purlins (the horizontal steel pieces that provide the second component of strucutural rgidity). One purlin goes down the center of the structure (the "apical" purlin, or ridge (but it goes on the inside of the frame- hanging from the hoops not set on top)), and then one purlin goes down each side at the point where the hoop pieces (side and span) join to give a compression fitting that holds the frame together without drilling through the tubing. On the 4' hoop sppacing this was all that I did, except to attach a 1x6 or deck board nailing board at 4' above ground- this too is held in place with either J or U bolts. On the 8' spacing between hoops, we add an additional purlin on each side at approximately 5' and attach with the frame compression clamps. On each end we have piut up 4x4 posts set in gravel or concrete that go up to the frame and are used to anchor the frame and the end walls. We have not placed additional frame components inside, the span is open internally. Our frames have been up for 6 years (4' spacing) or 5 years (8' spacing). We have had good snowloading, but using a padded 2x4 or brrom we have pushed up on the plastic from the inside to reduce snow on the frame. This help? John __________________ "Wiring is simple; However, it is not easy to do it right" Boon