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Originally Posted by lehket
Al,
I like it. One question, though: is there any rule of thumb about how much foliage one can remove from a juniper? (Silly question, perhaps; it probably depends on the species.) I ask because I had a needle juniper that I had greatly reduced and started training as a windswept. I had posted some photos of it around here somewhere. Coming out of last winter, it died. I think it was primarily because I didn't realize that it seriously needed repotting, and I should have done that rather than starting any work on it. But some folks here seemed to think that I had reduced it way too much.
Thanks!
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When you say needle juniper do you actually mean Juniperus Chinenses "Rigida" or do you mean a needle type foliage rather than scale foliage? Foemina is concidered a true needle juniper. It has the twin white stripe underneath the needle just as Rigida does. The needles on a rigida are about 1/8 longer than foemina. The needles are as sharp and stiff though.
Foemina is considered a weed type juniper. It responds well to very hard pruning. I have shown a small branch from a foemina juniper as is before pruning. It should be taken back as in the second picture, about 1/3 inch from the lignified part of the stem. All brown needles must be removed for back budding. It will bud profusely in about 4 weeks. Year round here in Fresno.
Other junipers the will respond to this type of pruning are procumbens. They will do quite well taking them down hard. If you wish to see mature foliage on a procumbens than this type of pruning will assure you won't. It needs to be pinched very lightly more often and not abused to much and then you wll get the mature scale foliage like Thomas J. gets on his older procumbens. This is something to shoot for once the style is established. The foeminas will never go to scale like foliage. It remains needle like its entire life.
I have included a close up of the twin stripe on the back of the needle indicateing it is a true needle juniper.