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Originally Posted by rlist
As long as the mix is free draining and hasn't broken down, the user will be able to fit a watering schedule and fertilizer regimine that fits for their trees, mix and area - and if they have any clue at all their trees will "grow great in that mix".
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Now this is what it all boils down to in the end...Regardless of the components, ratio of components, or size of granules, as long as it is free draining in the particular pot...One must be astute enough to adjust the watering and fertilizing to the need of the tree species, the pot, and the location...Learn to read the trees needs...It will work if you only pay attention...
For what it is worth...I use turface, Oil dri, lava, composted pine bark, or haydite, for most trees, in whatever mix ratio happens to come together in my mixing container, and what ever I have the most of at the time...I will occasionally add chopped sphagnum if I need to develop roots...I usually use mushroom compost, or top soil, mixed with whatever grit is handy for trees which need more moisture retention such as bald cypress, willow leaf oak, crape myrtle, water elm, etc...And for bald cypress which are in development requiring faster growth, I use 100% top soil or mushroom compost in a container with no drainage...
What I am attempting to say is, it really does not make that much difference what you use or in what ratio...What is the most important thing is adapting your soil, to either the needs of the tree, or to your personal habits of watering and fertilizing...Learn to read your trees...
Regards
Behr
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