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Greybeard
Join Date: Aug-2001
Location: Fresno, CA
Country: USA
Posts: 5,239
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And Now, A Word On Nebari
From time to time on the forum I have seen the word nebari used to describe what one might think of as a good root structure. I have wondered if these folks really knew what nebari is.
Nebari; exposed roots.
That is all the word means. It does not have much to do with the roots structure under the soil, nor does it have anything to do with the tachiagari, or lower trunk.
The roots of immature or seedling trees grow covered by the soil above. As the plant matures, the root become exposed to the weather and show the ravages of time. Good nebari is not a necessary thing to have on bonsai. Though, good nebari will capture the great age we seek in bonsai. A good nebari is one of the things that a judge will use to break the tie at a show or display. It is a very important part of the look of great bonsai.
Nebari is broken down into three catagories;
Shiho-Hapo Nebari (In all directions) The main roots radiate evenly in all directions. The roots are of the correct size and taper. The may show evidence of bark. This style is highly regarded in bonsai.
Bankon (Rock-like Roots) As the Shiho style roots grow with age they may fuse together into a rock like mass. This style is very unusual and show great age and power.
Kata-nebari (one sided root) In this case the root grows to one side. This style will add visual weight to a cascade or slanting style tree. The assymetry will also add weight to slanting bunjin styles.
Some methods for creating great nebari are as follows;
1. Ground layering
2. Grafting
3. Thread Grafting
4. Large growbox with flat board
Most all these techniques should be done in growboxes or in the ground. Ground layering is the easiest, making slots in the bark at just below ground level, applying rooting hormone and covering with soil or moss. best results are obtained with keeping the area moist. Bottom heat in the spring would encourage growth faster. Inarch grafting of small sapplings around the base would add larger roots faster, but does require specialized techniques. Thread grafting is probably easier. Obtain long shoots from same tree, or use rooted cuttings from parent tree. Drill holes at the trunk base and insert branches using the correct techniques. Growboxes with a flat board works well with most deciduous trees. A flat plate or board is placed under the flattened roots. The roots are tied to the board with twine. As the plant grows the roots are forced up a little and become more exposed. The twine rots off in time to not restrict the growth of the root mass.
Nebari does not have anything to do with the roots that grow under the ground. Of course, if the roots that are exposed are growing in a good radial pattern, then the roots under the soil would have recieved the same care, and can be assumed as being healthy. Cuttings seem to have the natural tendency to produce good nebari, since the roots will have been worked on from the beginning of the plants life. Nursery stock is a poor producer of plants with good nebari. The plants are kept in nursery containers too long, and the roots wind around the can. Constant watering washes the soil from the cans. Minimum wage workers never replace the soil and the plant withers.
Knarled, coiled, crossing exposed roots are not nebari. Radial knarled roots might be good, but that would be the exception.There should be no spaces under the roots. The soil should come to half way up on the roots, and the roots should look as if they are clasping the soil. Seeing daylight under the roots means they are totaly exposed and that is something different, Neagari (exposed root style).
I have included a drawing of the most of the areas I have talked about, except one. I have seen people measure the tree at the root base. I think that is OK. It should also include the measurement of the trunk at the waist. Most trees are measured at the waist. I have seen trees with a 11" trunk. When you see the picture of the tree, at the soil line it is 11", at one inch above that the tree is 3" across at the waist. I feel that is decieving. The better thing IMHO would be to say: " The tree has a 3" trunk with a 11" root spread. Nobody could argue with that.
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