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Uh, if you're growing this species because of it's blooms--which is the biggest reason for using crape myrtle as a bonsai subject, I think--, chopping it into a shohin might not be the best option.

The blooms on crapes dont' reduce. Unless you're working with a dwarf variety like "chickasaw" or the like, the bloom spikes on your finished image will look very odd--they look odd on big crape bonsai too, but the effect isn't as noticeable on larger specimens. Crape grow very quickly and can take hard pruning well, especially if they're in the ground.

Also, as you hard prune, keep in mind crape tends to send up tons of root suckers from the root crown. This tendency doubles or triples when you hard prune. Root suckering will drain strength from other more established parts of the plant and should be rubbed off when it starts.

26-Jan-2006	#8
rockm bonsaiTALK ArchMaster Join Date: Oct-2003 Location: Fairfax, Va Country: USA USDA Zone: 7 AHS Heat Zone: ? Posts: 4,561	Uh, if you're growing this species because of it's blooms--which is the biggest reason for using crape myrtle as a bonsai subject, I think--, chopping it into a shohin might not be the best option. The blooms on crapes dont' reduce. Unless you're working with a dwarf variety like "chickasaw" or the like, the bloom spikes on your finished image will look very odd--they look odd on big crape bonsai too, but the effect isn't as noticeable on larger specimens. Crape grow very quickly and can take hard pruning well, especially if they're in the ground. Also, as you hard prune, keep in mind crape tends to send up tons of root suckers from the root crown. This tendency doubles or triples when you hard prune. Root suckering will drain strength from other more established parts of the plant and should be rubbed off when it starts.