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G'day Mo...

Preparation and treatment for preservation of deadwood, rotted or not, is much the same as that for jin and shari.

In broad terms, you carve away all rotted wood, if any, then carve the area to enhance, or at least complement, your design. Be sure that that there are no scars showing from knife, chisel, rough sandpaper, etc. Then finish off with super fine sand paper, or steel wool, or even a small torch...to remove remaining hairs.

Next...somewhat controversial...many people, for many years, have used lime sulphur as a preservetive...and to give the dead wood that "white" look. However, I don't use lime sulphur, and I don't like the "white" look.

A fungicide like lime sulfur should help to prevent or to get rid of rot causing fungi. It is great for treatment and prevention of these things. Lime sulfur is NOT a wood preservetive...in my opinion.

Much better than lime sulphur, again in my opinion, is Minwax Wood Hardener (available at most hardware stores in the US), or something like Thompson's Water Sealer, or Marine Epoxy.

Some time back, Michael Persiano recommended a combination of lime sulfur, Minwax Wood Hardener, and, if necessary, Marine Epoxy to restore decayed areas.

So, always remember, and don't ever forget...lime sulfur is a fungacide, NOT a wood preservetive.

Enjoy your bonsai...

Pat

__________________
BONSAI isn't about surviving in a storm, rather, how to dance in the rain.
THE ONLY WAY: Always remember, and don't ever forget, that whatever you read here is not cast in concrete... the intent of any advice is to help. In no way should you feel that I’m saying that my way is the only way…heaven forbid! I've seen far too much of the "my way or the highway" attitude in bonsai as well as in other areas of life.

Pat Patterson...Bonsai in the Greater Bay Area, Northern California

9-Nov-2005	#3
PatArizona Bonsai Master, in my mind Join Date: Feb-2005 Location: Back Home in Northern California Country: USA Posts: 1,635	G'day Mo... Preparation and treatment for preservation of deadwood, rotted or not, is much the same as that for jin and shari. In broad terms, you carve away all rotted wood, if any, then carve the area to enhance, or at least complement, your design. Be sure that that there are no scars showing from knife, chisel, rough sandpaper, etc. Then finish off with super fine sand paper, or steel wool, or even a small torch...to remove remaining hairs. Next...somewhat controversial...many people, for many years, have used lime sulphur as a preservetive...and to give the dead wood that "white" look. However, I don't use lime sulphur, and I don't like the "white" look. A fungicide like lime sulfur should help to prevent or to get rid of rot causing fungi. It is great for treatment and prevention of these things. Lime sulfur is NOT a wood preservetive...in my opinion. Much better than lime sulphur, again in my opinion, is Minwax Wood Hardener (available at most hardware stores in the US), or something like Thompson's Water Sealer, or Marine Epoxy. Some time back, Michael Persiano recommended a combination of lime sulfur, Minwax Wood Hardener, and, if necessary, Marine Epoxy to restore decayed areas. So, always remember, and don't ever forget...lime sulfur is a fungacide, NOT a wood preservetive. Enjoy your bonsai... Pat __________________ BONSAI isn't about surviving in a storm, rather, how to dance in the rain. THE ONLY WAY: Always remember, and don't ever forget, that whatever you read here is not cast in concrete... the intent of any advice is to help. In no way should you feel that I’m saying that my way is the only way…heaven forbid! I've seen far too much of the "my way or the highway" attitude in bonsai as well as in other areas of life. Pat Patterson...Bonsai in the Greater Bay Area, Northern California